Ford On Food

It’s one of those Hollywood things – we often associate foods like lobster and caviar with the fabulously wealthy upper-class.After-all, in movies we see millionaires in tuxedoes being served silver platters of caviar with glasses of champagne. So it’s no surprise that caviar has been given a bad rap with the average Joe.Plus, the thought of eating fish eggs doesn’t always go down well with most people. Truth be told, caviar isn’t all that bad!In brief, caviar is the salted roe of certain species of fish. It varies in colour, from deep back, to brown or bright red.The most famous is from the Beluga Sturgeon, which is found in the Caspian Sea, off the coasts of Russia, and Iran. It’s not as available these days due to overfishing and pollution.Lump fish Roe is a cheaper alternative, but it’s not technically called caviar.Another common variety is roe from the North Atlantic Salmon.Here in Australia, aqua farmed Salmon Roe (or Salmon Pearls) is fairly abundant and inexpensive, and it’s the one I like the most.I

It’s a fact of life, not everybody likes blue vein cheese. It can be an acquired taste.Many people I know absolutely hate it. However, when I was kid I can’t recall anybody liking blue vein cheese.So, obviously there has been a culinary or cultural change in Australia over recent years.I also think there has been a change in the availability and assortment of blue vein cheese in the marketplace.If you look back a few decades, there were mainly the very strong, acidic and crumbly varieties available. But now there is a huge range that includes less offensive, mild and creamy versions.I personally prefer the mild creamy brie style blue veins, rather than the rich Stilton variety.The history of blue vein cheese isn’t’t completely documented; however the general consensus is that it was accidental, out of the blue (excuse the pun).The original product was possibly contaminated with a wild mould, which may have even been dangerous.However, modern cheese makers have perfected the process of inoculating the cheese w

The word antipasto is derived from the Italian ante, which means ‘before’ and pasto which means ‘meal’.Antipasto is traditionally a selection of hot or cold appetisers served at the beginning of and Italian meal.The most typical antipasti (plural) items could include various table olives, cheese, pickled vegetables, cured meats, salamis, cold fish, frittata, fresh or sun dried tomatoes and anchovies.In most of the regional areas of Italy, antipasto will consist of vegetable and meat items, but on the coastal areas you would encounter more seafood, such as marinated calamari or baby octopus.It is also quite common to find various dips and crispy bread products accompanying the selection, such as crostini, bruschetta or arancini.Antipasto is found extensively in the modern restaurant scene, from coffee shops to cellar doors and brasseries all over the world.It is commonplace to find people of all cultures and nationalities relaxing on a Saturday afternoon at their favourite haunt, sipping wine and sampling the

I don’t like microwave ovens. It’s a hate-hate relationship. Therefore I have no advice for you on the subject.Regardless of what magical tricks the manufacturer will claim their nuclear gadget can do, I would never use a microwave to cook something.They do have some limited use, to defrost small frozen food items, or to melt butter (maybe). But even then, they regularly over-heat; burn and half cook the food.With all the buttons, dials, beeps, bells and digital displays found on a microwave, I believe they only really have two settings – high biff and low biff!Also, there is one issue that annoys me the most, no two microwaves are ever the same. I have never seen the same microwave in anyone else’s kitchen, like I have in mine.I have worked in countless restaurants, and have never seen the same model of microwave. I once walked through a roadhouse kitchen, and they had a bank of 8 microwaves, all of which were different brands and models.Think about it… have you ever seen an identical version of your microwa

One of the first skills a professional chef will learn is the production of ‘Mirepoix’.It’s correctly pronounced ‘meer-pwa’ because the ‘x’ is silent. I can’t help but smile when someone pronounces it ‘miri-pocks’.Mirepoix is a French term used to describe a mixture of aromatic vegetables which impart their flavour into stocks, sauces, stews or braises.Vegetables, such as onions, carrots and celery are roughly cut up and slowly cooked into a recipe to improve its flavour. They are often strained out and discarded prior to serving the dish.However, there is also a myriad of other aromatics that may sometimes find their way into a Mirepoix, such as leeks, garlic, ginger, tomato and mushrooms. Ultimately it’s the desired flavour profile that dictates which aromatic vegetables are chosen.The cooking time also plays a role in the size of the mirepoix. A smaller cut of mirepoix will impart its flavour faster in a dish that requires shorter cooking time (e.g. braises) and a larger cut is less likely to disintegrate

Unfortunately for me, I can’t eat raw bananas without upsetting my stomach. There is something in them (maybe tannin) that makes my feel unwell.I’m also too unfit to swing from trees – so I would make a lousy monkey.I can however eat cooked bananas, so if you have a similar intolerance, try them barbecued or fried with caramelised sugar and rum. Or maybe diced and cooked in pancakes.Bananas are one of the oldest cultivated fruits and have been eaten by humans in places like India and Asia thousands of years.Contrary to popular belief, bananas don’t grow on trees or even palms; they are the fruit from one of the world’s largest herbs. And, to confuse the issue some more, bananas are technically a berry.Bananas grow in large bunches referred to as a ‘hand’ and are harvested green, because they ripen best after being picked. They contain heaps of essential vitamins (particular B-group), complex carbohydrates, potassium, dietary fiber and absolutely no fat.Varieties commonly available in Australia are Cavendish,

I’ve discovered over the years that there can be some confusion categorising squash, depending on where you live in the world.There is a whole range of vegetables that belong to the ‘Marrow’ family. They include squash, melons, cucumbers, gourds, marrows (zucchinis) and pumpkins.The general rule is that squash that grow in winter time have thick skin and hard flesh, while summer squash has softer skin and wetter flesh.In Australia, when someone goes shopping for Summer Squash, they are referring to the ‘Pattypan Squash’. Pattypans are flying saucer shaped with knobbly edges and are often available in green or bright yellow (as in my illustrated).Also, what Australians refer to as Zucchini, Americans may call ‘Courgette’.Pumpkins can also cause equal confusion for Australians, because in the US many varieties are referred to as squash or gourds.It seems to me that if an American can carve it into a Jack-o’-lantern, then it’s called a pumpkin?I’m not certain where the differences in squash terminology originate

My love affair with Sushi began in the mid 90s when I worked as a Pastry Chef in a large hotel. The establishment had a Japanese Restaurant called Kabuki. I would smuggle the Japanese Sushi Chef’s desserts as a trade for their sushi and tempura. I became hopelessly addicted. Eventually, my obsession became so overwhelming, I convinced the Sushi Chefs to show me how they were made, so I could make them myself at home. I quickly discovered that Sushi is incredibly easy to make. And, although I love the raw seafood variety, you can really put anything you desire on, or in sushi. Cooked chicken, tuna, seafood sticks, avocado, vegetables, noodles… anything! Japanese cuisine has become very popular in today’s western culture. Sushi used to be the exclusive delicacy of powerful Japanese Emperors, now you can find it sold on any Australian street corner, pub, club, in most shopping complexes and airports. However, like me, many Australians are not just content to go out for their sushi; their craving is driving them

It’s one of the most humble and least glamorous vegetables on Earth; however most cuisines would be unrecognisable without them.Onions have a long and colourful past, and are probably one of oldest culinary ingredients in human history.Egyptian hieroglyphics and artwork tell the story of how onions where purchased at great expense to feed the slave workforce and keep them physically healthy and motivated while building the pyramids.Countless religious writings, scriptures and historical documents from all over the world make references to onions.There is a myriad of varieties grown for culinary, medicinal and ornamental uses, but only a dozen or so common varieties are found in regular grocery stores.Brown onions would possibly be the mainstay in most kitchens, because of their savoury full bodies flavour.White onions are a little more earthy and pungent, while red onions are quite sweet and are well suited to eating raw in salads.There are the smaller shallot onions that have a complex balance of sweet and p

There are three varieties of artichoke – the Globe, the Jerusalem and the Chinese artichoke. The most common of which is the ‘Globe’. The globe artichoke is in fact, an unopened flower bud of a perennial of the thistle group of the sunflower family and is believed to be a native of the Mediterranean and the Canary Islands. If the bud is allowed to open, it blossoms as a brilliant violet-blue flower about 7 inches in diameter. Artichokes are available all year round, but peek in spring and autumn. The artichoke resembles a large green ball of scales (petals) that get smaller and tenderer toward the vegetables centre. Although I’ve regularly seen artichokes in many grocery stores, Most Australians would be unfamiliar with their preparation – whereas most Europeans cook them regularly. Whole Globe Artichokes are prepared for cooking by removing all but 5-10mm of the stem, and cutting away the top third of the artichoke. Any tough or pointy outer leaves can be pulled off. You should also squeeze some lemon juice

Asparagus stalks are the young spear-shaped shoots obtained from a perennial plant native to both Europe and Western Asia. It is a member of the lily family and thousands of years has been eaten as a vegetable. The most common variety is harvested when it is above ground and exposed to photosynthesis. White asparagus is obtained by cutting the shoots before they break the surface of the ground or they are grown in darkness; therefore they lack the deep chlorophyll green (they just need a suntan). There is a purple variety available, although it turns greener when it is cooked. Very young, thin asparagus spears are called ‘sprue’. Interestingly, fresh export asparagus is packed into boxes approximately 2/3 full, as the spears continue to grow and fill up the box during its days in transit.How to cook fresh asparagusThe base of asparagus spear is generally tough and woody. The ends can be cut, snapped or peeled off and discarded. Asparagus should be laid on their side and cooked in shallow simmering water. A li

I’ve discovered over the years there are just as many people claiming to be allergic to prawns, as those who can’t get enough of them. The allergic effect ranges from mild skin irritation, to claims of instant death at the mere sight of a prawn. Most cases of seafood allergy would be quite legitimate, and in some cases rather dangerous. Even my wife has had allergic reactions to them. Although, recently she’s discovered that after incorporating prawns into a meal and thorough cooking, she can enjoy them without any discomfort. Her doctor suggested it could even be a reaction to the iodine sometimes found on fresh seafood. If you discovered your allergy as a child and have never eaten them since, it might be worthwhile consulting your doctor. Prawns are a crustacean, and are found all over the world. In countries such as America they are referred to as ‘shrimp’. Australia has a diverse range of prawns available, such as Banana, Bay, Endeavour, King, School and Tiger. All have their own unique taste, flavour, c

Cooking is a process of applying heat to a food item to increase palatability, to enhance flavour, tenderise, caramalise and even kill off bacteria. Unfortunately this simple process can rapidly and dramatically turn into a disaster of Titanic proportions. As experienced as I may be in the kitchen, I’m still capable of destroying food. And the most common disaster I have is getting distracted and burning things. But it doesn’t just stop at burning the food. I have burnt myself too many times to count – I’ve even burnt other people (only a couple of times). I once pulled a roasting tray out from the top shelf of an oven. The 8kg pork leg shifted in the tray and over balanced. Searing hot fat from the tray ran down my arm and into the boot of a kitchen hand standing behind me. We both screamed, he jumped into the washing up sink and I followed him by showering us with the washing up hose – pity it had just been used for hot water, because our first few seconds of water came out scolding hot. Lucky for me, the k

As I write this article, I’ve got a batch of fresh bread dough on-the-prove. Which means the yeast in the dough is having a great time eating up sugars and starch and converting them into alcohol and bubbles of carbon dioxide. These little gas bubbles get trapped in the sticky bread dough and cause the bread to expand like a balloon.. In brief technical terms, yeast is a single-celled living organism. It is classified as a fungus. Yeast is a wonderful friend to all people who love baking. However, if you don’t treat it right, it can be a very unforgiving friend. I’ve spent a lot of my cooking career in pastry kitchens and have used a lot of yeast. I’ve also had a couple of disasters, most of which could be attributed to the yeast feeling mistreated, disrespected and unappreciated. In return, the yeast punished me by not doing it’s job and producing flat heavy cow pats instead of light crusty bread. There are three main types of yeast: Fresh compressed yeast (which is my favourite) is the most active and alive

Now you may ask, “Why would you want to peel a tomato”? The short answer is that tomato skin is often leathery. And, it’s my job as a chef to make the customers dining experience a pleasurable one. So, for certain dishes (such as pasta sauce) the tomato skin just has to go. Hasta la vista, baby!Step 1) Get a pot of water to a rolling boil.Step 2) Cut a cross into the bottom of the ripe tomato, just through the skin. This will give the skin a place to start coming off later on.Step 3) This is where I give one of those ‘Please take care’ warnings. You need to cut the eye out from the top of the tomato in a wedge shape. I kid you not, in all my years as a chef and cookery teacher, I’ve seen more bloodshed at this stage of the process than a hospital emergency ward. If you are not very confident with a knife, do this on the chopping board. Always cut away from yourself.Step 4) Carefully lower the tomato into the pot of boiling water, don’t drop it or it will splash you (Ouch!). Only leave it in for 5 – 10 seconds

Often referred to as ‘eggplant’, Aubergine is commonly used as a vegetable, but it’s actually as a fruit, related to tomatoes and potatoes. In fact, the fruit itself is botanically classified as a berry. And, believe it or not, the aubergine plant is a close relative of the tobacco plant. Originating in South East Asia, the aubergine is also widely used in Italian, Mediterranean, French and Middle Eastern cuisines. There are many varieties of aubergine – some are small pea shaped and some are large pumpkin-like in shape and size. Colours vary from green, cream, dark purple to yellow. Aubergines can be served hot or cold, braised, baked, battered and deep-fried, grilled, pan-fried, barbecued, stuffed, blended and pureed. The most famous dishes made from aubergine are ratatouille (not the movie), moussaka, baba ghanoush and imam bayildi. I’m a big fan of aubergine, especially grilled slices. However they can be a little bitter in their original form. That’s because they contain the highest level of nicotine of

Somebody once told me, “Jason…the closest you’ll ever get to culture, is yoghurt”. Pretty harsh comment really, but I think I deserved it at the time. It comes as a surprise to some people that less than one percent of all bacteria on earth are dangerous to humans. The ones that cause food poisoning are called pathogens; a lot of the other bacteria are quite useful in food production. Imagine a world without beer, wine, cheese, vegemite, penicillin or yoghurt. You’d rather live on the moon – it’s made of cheese you know (excuse the pun). Fermenting and coagulating various types of milk, makes yoghurt. As the milk turns, the natural sugars (lactose) are converted into lactic acid, which in turn produces bacterial change. Large producers of yoghurt add active bacteria such as ‘lactobacillus bulgericus’ or ‘streptococcus thermophilus’. Yoghurt has been produced for many centuries in the Middle East and India, most probably a natural occurrence, before refrigeration was invented. Most Western and European culture

It seems to me that most people are repulsed by the thought of eating fresh raw oysters. A taste for oysters ‘a la natural’ is an acquired taste, best developed at a young age but certainly obtainable later in life. I personally hadn’t seen a fresh oyster until I became an apprentice chef. I’d eaten the tinned cooked variety plenty of times, but there is simply no substitute for fresh. Ok, I admit the texture of a fresh raw oyster is slimy, gooey and challenging to say the least (there’s comparisons I won’t mention). However, in my opinion the flavour of a freshly shucked live oyster is the most exquisite gastronomic experience a person can have. Just a squeeze of lemon juice and a sprinkle of flaked sea salt – it’s evokes memories of the spray of Queensland’s tropical surf on your lips (what a dreamer!). There are two main varieties available in Australia, mostly the farmed Sydney Rock Oysters, a delicate but full-bodied flavour, or the larger Pacific Oyster. The Pacific Oysters are quite popular because of

If you love a good breakfast… then join the club. For two thirds of the year, my family and I spend brekky time out on the verandah in the fresh morning air. Sometimes I even crank up the barbecue to cook our bacon and eggs. Although I usually look for healthy options, I just worship an indulgent breakfast. So, what kinds of breakfast menus are there? Here are some popular choices:Full Breakfast – was made popular by the English, and has a lot of traditional cooked fair like eggs, meats, small goods (bacon), sausages, mushrooms, fish (kippers), pastries, toast and conserves and hot beverages like coffee. That’s what I’m talk’n ‘bout!Continental – is a lighter European or French option, with tea and coffee being the important part, accompanied by cereal, fruit juice and small baked pastry items (Danish pastries). Probably the best choice if you’re feeling a little seedy.American – hash brown always come to mind, as well as pancakes, waffles, crepes and French toast. The whole lot is usually smothered in whipp

You often hear the term “I can’t even boil water!” when somebody describes their lack of confidence in the kitchen. Although this statement is generally said in jest, it isn't necessarily far from the truth. There are several different cooking methods requiring food to be submerged in hot liquid, and it’s worth understanding the science behind them. Boiling – would have to be the easiest method of cookery, normally water is used and cooking time is short. Controlling the heat is simple as boiling point is 100oC. The best description for boiling is bubbles rising and rapidly bursting at the surface of the liquid. Cooking vegetables with this method will lock in colours and nutrients. Simmering – is where things get a little trickier. Simmering is a gentler method of cooking as bubbles gently rise to the surface of the liquid but don’t burst. This happens around 95 to 98oC. Foods that require longer cooking time (stews and braises) appreciate the gentle simmering process. Poaching – requires vigilance and regul