Bande À Part

We talk about the V&A’s fantastical exhibition ‘Alice: Curioser and Curioser’ about the influence of Lewis Carroll’s novel ‘Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland’. See links below. ‘Alice: Curioser and Curioser’, Victoria & Albert Museum, London (to 31 December 2021); https://www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/alice-curiouser-and-curiouser Jonathan Jones, ‘Alice: Curiouser and Curiouser review – a wonderful tumble down the rabbit hole’, The Guardian (18 May 2021): https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2021/may/18/alice-curiouser-and-curiouser-victoria-and-albert-museum-london Claire Marie Healy, ‘How Alice in Wonderland Became Visual Culture’s Proto-Teenage Girl’, AnOther (21 May 2021): https://www.anothermag.com/design-living/13338/how-alice-in-wonderland-became-visual-culture-s-proto-teenage-girl Tim Spears, ‘alice: curioser and curioser preview in wonderland at V&A museum, london’, designboom (21 May 2021): https://www.designboom.com/art/alice-curiouser-and-curiouser-exhibition-preview-va-museum-london-05-21-2

We talk about the fascinating photographs of Namsa Leuba and what we learned from her recent online conversation with Nomusa Makhubu, organised by London’s Photographers’ Gallery. See links below. http://www.namsaleuba.com/ Artist Talk: Namsa Leuba, Photographers’ Gallery, London (12 October 2021): https://thephotographersgallery.org.uk/whats-on/artist-talk-namsa-leuba Miss Rosen, ‘Namsa Leuba’s kaleidoscopic photographs explore the politics of the gaze’, Dazed (13 October 2021): https://www.dazeddigital.com/art-photography/article/54348/1/namsa-leuba-kaleidoscopic-photographs-explore-politics-of-the-gaze-crossed-looks Namsa Leuba, ‘Crossed Looks’, Halsey Institute of Contemporary Art at The College of Charleston (27 August – 11 December 2021): https://halsey.cofc.edu/main-exhibitions/crossed-looks/ Helen Jennings, ‘Namsa Leuba’, Nataal (2016): https://nataal.com/namsa-leuba Esther Mahlangu, South African History Online (2015/2021): https://www.sahistory.org.za/people/esther-mahlangu

We talk about the Brixton films of Clovis Salmon, aka Sam the Wheels, celebrated at a recent event which included a filmed portrait of ‘Super Sam’ by Sandi Hudson-Francis. See links below. And ... we are on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast Sam The Wheels – Local Brixton films 1960-2008: https://www.samthewheels.co.uk/ ‘Jesus Saves’ film at Mutiny Arts: http://www.mutinyarts.co.uk/jesussaves ‘”I went wherever there was fighting”: how Sam the Wheels filmed Brixton ablaze’, The Guardian (4 October 2021): https://www.theguardian.com/film/2021/oct/04/everything-burn-sam-wheels-filmed-brixton-ablaze-uprisings-black-britain-clovis-salmon Sandi Hudson-Francis (director), ‘Super Sam’ (2021): https://www.sandihudsonfrancis.com/film/super-sam-trailer 198 Contemporary Arts & Learning: https://www.198.org.uk/ ‘Sam the Wheels - The Great Conflict, Brixton Riots & other films (24 February – 22 April 2017): https://autograph.org.uk/exhibitions/the-great-conflict-brixton-riots-other-films ‘Sam

We talk about Clint Ramos’ fabulous costume designs for ‘Respect’, the film about Aretha Franklin – played by Jennifer Hudson – and directed by Liesl Tommy. See links below. And ... we are now on Patreon! Have a look at our page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast Thebe Magugu: https://www.instagram.com/thebemagugu/?hl=en and https://www.instagram.com/tv/CUaJESrgo9J/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link Liesl Tommy (director), Clint Ramos (costume designer), ‘Respect’ (2021): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt2452150/ ‘Respect’ microsite: https://www.universalpictures.co.uk/micro/respect Erica Gonazles, ‘Aretha Franklin Used Clothing for Protection, to Take Up Space, and to Make Herself Heard’, Harpers Bazaar (13 August 2021): https://www.harpersbazaar.com/culture/film-tv/a37280291/aretha-franklin-respect-costumes/ Liam Freeman, ‘Respect Costume Designer Clint Ramos on Aretha Franklin’s soulful style’, Vogue (11 August 2021): https://www.vogue.com/article/respect-costume-designer-clint-ramos-aretha-frankl

We talk about Rebecca’s visit to the wonderful ‘Drawing on Style’ fashion illustration exhibition curated by Gray M.C.A. at Cromwell Place in London. See links below. And ... we are now on Patreon! Have a look at our page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast ‘Drawing on Style’, hosted by Gray M.C.A, Wing Gallery (16 – 26 September 2021): https://cromwellplace.com/whats-on/drawing-on-style Gray M.C.A., Bath: https://graymca.com/ Poppy Waddilove: https://poppywaddilove.com/ Frida Wannerberger: https://www.fridawannerberger.com/ Richard Haines: https://www.instagram.com/richard_haines/ Victoria Thorne: https://www.instagram.com/victoriathorne/ Jimmie Henslee: https://www.instagram.com/hensleejimmie/ L Gazette du Bon Ton and other French fashion magazines: https://gallica.bnf.fr/html/und/presse-et-revues/presse-de-mode?mode=desktop ProQuest Historical Newspapers – Black Newspapers: https://about.proquest.com/en/products-services/histnews-bn/ The Afro Archives: https://www.afro.com/archiv

We discuss Kim K’s Met Gala outfit which made anonymity spectacular, and Rebecca’s recent essay on Kanye for MoMu’s ‘E/Motion: Fashion in Transition’ exhibition catalogue. See links below. And ... we are now on Patreon! Have a look at our page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast ‘E/Motion. Fashion in Transition’, MoMu, Antwerp (4 September 2021 – 23 January 2022): https://www.momu.be/en/exhibitions/emotion-en Elisa de Wyngaert, Rebecca Arnold, Caroline Evans, ‘Emotion’ (2021): https://www.lannoopublishers.com/en/emotion-0 www.jackienickerson.com and https://www.instagram.com/jackie_nickerson/ ‘In America: A Lexicon of Fashion’, Costume Institute, Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York (18 September 2021 – 22 September 2022): https://www.metmuseum.org/exhibitions/listings/2021/in-america

We marvel at the brightly coloured resort wear in Agnes Varda’s 1958 film ‘Du Côté de la Côte’ shot in the beautiful south of France. See links below. And ... we are now on Patreon! Have a look at our page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast ‘Charlotte Perriand: The Modern Life’, official catalogue of the exhibition of the same name at the Design Museum, London (ended 5 September 2021): https://designmuseumshop.com/products/charlotte-perriand-the-modern-life-exhibition-catalogue La Revue de Cinéma: https://www.instagram.com/larevuedecinema Agnes Varda (director), Du Côté de la Côte (Along the Coast) (1958): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0051561/ and https://www.criterionchannel.com/du-cote-de-la-cote Darragh O’Donoghue, ‘Du côté de la côte’, Senses of Cinema (June 2014): https://www.sensesofcinema.com/2014/cteq/du-cote-de-la-cote/

We discuss the beautiful exhibition of photographs by James Barnor at the Serpentine Gallery in London. See links below. And ... we are now on Patreon! Check out our page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast ‘James Barnor: Accra/London – A Retrospective’, Serpentine Gallery, London (19 May – 24 October 2021): https://www.serpentinegalleries.org/whats-on/james-barnor/ ‘Portraits of the Future: A Celebration of James Barnor’ (31 March 2021): https://youtu.be/AqhWdoMOWTQ ‘James Barnor: Ghanaian Modernist’, Bristol Museum & Art Gallery (18 May – 31 October 2021): https://www.bristolmuseums.org.uk/bristol-museum-and-art-gallery/whats-on/bristol-photo-festival-james-barnor-ghanaian-modernist/ Autograph, ‘James Barnor: Ever Young’ (12 June 2020): https://autograph.org.uk/blog/james-barnor-ever-young-newspaper/ (free download of Autograph’s James Barnor exhibition newspaper) ‘Ever Young: James Barnor’, Autograph (2010): https://vimeo.com/50701534 ‘Drum Magazine’, South African History Online (not d

We discuss the wonderful morning we spent with designer Omer Asim and his collaborator Maya Antoun - looking at their beautiful and inspiring work that unites body and fabric in sensual minimalist forms. See links below. We are going to have a break and will be back in September. Have a great summer! http://www.omer-asim.com https://www.instagram.com/omer_asim https://www.instagram.com/maya.antoun/ Omer Asim, SHOWstudio: https://www.showstudio.com/contributors/omer_asim Jenny Pashkova, ‘Omer Asim’, Off Black Magazine (2014): http://offblackmagazine.com/archive/archives/project/omer-asim Helen Jennings, ‘Omer Asim’, Nataal (2017): https://nataal.com/omer-asim ‘Omer Asim: The Stealth SuperBrand’, because magazine (17 June 2020): https://becauselondon.com/fashion/2020/omer-asim-shining-bright-under-the-radar/ Marie Grace Brown, ‘Khartoum at Night: Fashion and Body Politics in Imperial Sudan’, Stanford University Press (2017): https://www.sup.org/books/title/?id=25840 Rebecca Arnold, ‘Vionnet an

We discuss Chusheng Cai’s fascinating 1932 film ‘Pink Dream’ - which shows us the opulent world of Shanghai dance halls …. See links below. ‘Constance Spry and the Fashion for Flowers’, Garden Museum (17 May – 26 September 2021): https://gardenmuseum.org.uk/exhibitions/constancespry/ ‘Noël Coward: Art & Style’, Guildhall Art Gallery (14 June – 23 December 2021): https://www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/things-to-do/attractions-museums-entertainment/guildhall-galleries/guildhall-art-gallery/noel-coward St Olave Hart Street, London, Atlas Obscura: https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/st-olave-hart-street Chusheng Cai (director), Pink Dream [aka Dream in Pink] (1932): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt1128062/ Available here: https://archive.org/details/1932pinkdream and https://youtu.be/BuY7pW1dblw Chusheng Cai (director), New Women (1935): https://youtu.be/9Q4zhLxCBro Ernst Lubitsch (director), The Love Parade (1929): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0020112/ (with Jeannette MacDonald) ‘A Good Summary Account of Sha

We talk about the mesmerising Jean Dubuffet exhibition at Barbican Art Gallery in London and the wonderful works of mediumistic artist Madge Gill. See links below. ‘Chintz: Cotton in Bloom’, Fashion and Textile Museum, London (18 May – 12 September 2021): https://www.ftmlondon.org/ftm-exhibitions/chintz-cotton-in-bloom/ ‘Jean Dubuffet: Brutal Beauty’, Barbican Art Gallery, London (17 May 2021 – 22 August 2021): https://www.barbican.org.uk/whats-on/2021/event/jean-dubuffet-brutal-beauty Fondation Jean Dubuffet: https://www.dubuffetfondation.com/ Audiovisual biography of Dubuffet: https://www.dubuffetfondation.com/savie_videolistplayer.php Collection de L’Art Brut, Lausanne: https://www.artbrut.ch/en_GB/exhibition/dubuffet-art-brut Madge Gill: http://madgegill.com/ and https://worksby-madgegill.co/ Madge Gill, Sans Titre (not dated): https://www.artbrut.ch/en_GB/author/gill-madge Dress by Madge Gill at MAAS, Sidney (1940s): https://collection.maas.museum/object/167418 Madge Gill, Newham Heritag

We talk about Zanele Muholi’s incredible exhibition at Tate Modern in London. See links below. Zanele Muholi, Tate Modern, London (5 November 2020 – 31 May 2021): https://www.tate.org.uk/whats-on/tate-modern/exhibition/zanele-muholi Zanele Muholi: In Conversation with Lady Phyll | Artist's Talk | Tate Exchange (18 November 2020): https://youtu.be/4gzzNRKh2vs Zanele Muholi, ‘Katlego Mashiloane and Nosipho Lavuta, Ext. 2, Lakeside, Johannesburg’ (2007): https://g.co/arts/VhjExsG7BMXQrLsJA Zanele Muholi, ‘Vuyelwa Vuvu Makubetse Daveyton Johannesburg’ (2013): https://www.wellesley.edu/davismuseum/explore-the-collections/recent-acquisitions/vuyelwa-vuvu-makubetse-daveyton-johannesburg Maurice Berger, ‘Zanele Muholi: Paying Homage to the History of Black Women’, New York Times (3 December 2018): https://www.nytimes.com/2018/12/03/lens/zanele-muholi-somnyama-ngonyama-south-africa.html

We discuss the publication of Archivist Addendum - unboxed live on the podcast - and the first title in the new book series Fashion: Visual & Material Interconnections: Alison Toplis’s The Hidden History of the Smock Frock. See links below. Archivist Addendum: Fashion Interpretations: https://tenderbooks.co.uk/products/archivist-addendum Fashion Interpretations: https://sites.courtauld.ac.uk/fashioninterpretations/ Blaak: https://www.showstudio.com/contributors/blaak The Courtauld, ‘Fashion: Visual & Material Interconnections Book Series Launch’ (21 May 2021): https://youtu.be/AANXmdpT7aE Alison Toplis, ‘The Hidden History of the Smock Frock’, Bloomsbury (2021): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/the-hidden-history-of-the-smock-frock-9781350126114/ Alison Toplis’ Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/smockfrock98/ Smocks at The Museum of English Rural Life, Reading: https://tinyurl.com/phnumvb6 Luce Moyse Ferreira, ‘Danger in the Path of Chic: Violence in Fashion between the Wars’, Bloomsbury (2021):

We talk about the work involved in preparing dress and textile objects for a museum collection. See links below. Dress and textiles at the Museum of London: https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/collections/about-our-collections/what-we-collect/dress-and-textiles London’s Fashion Alphabet, Museum of London: https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/museum-london/londons-fashion-alphabet Kim Philpotts’ 1980s/90s clothes: https://tinyurl.com/79t5zpzn Halima Khanom, ‘What Muslims Wear’, Museum of London (18 March 2016): https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/discover/what-muslims-wear Museums and Galleries Commission, ‘An illustrated guide to the care of costume and textile collections’ (2000): https://collectionstrust.org.uk/resource/an-illustrated-guide-to-the-care-of-costume-and-textile-collections/ Resources from DATS (Dress & Textile Specialist network) for identifying and cataloguing dress and textiles: https://www.dressandtextilespecialists.org.uk/dats-toolkits/ and https://www.dressandtextilespecialists.org.uk

We discuss the new Netflix series on Halston - just how accurate is it? And how will they turn fashion design into entertainment? See links below. Daniel Minahan (director), Jeriana San Juan (costume designer), Halston (2021): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt9569546/ Leigh Nordstrom, ‘Cutting the “Halston” Cloth’, WWD (14 May 2021): https://wwd.com/eye/lifestyle/halston-netflix-costumes-ewan-mcgregor-jeriana-san-juan-1234822920/ Netflix Staff, ‘The Fashion Behind Halston’ (13 May 2021): https://about.netflix.com/en/news/the-fashion-behind-halston Maureen Dowd, ‘Ewan McGregor: Dahling, He’s Halston!’, The New York Times (7 May 2021): https://www.nytimes.com/2021/05/07/style/ewan-mcgregor-halston-netflix.html Molly O’Donnell, ‘Jessie Franklin Turner: American Fashion Designer (1881-1956)’, Maine Historical Society (3 December 2019): https://mainehistory.wordpress.com/2019/12/03/jessie-franklin-turner-american-fashion-designer/ Exhibition: ‘Halston and Warhol: Silver and Suede’, The Andy Warhol Museum, P

We discuss the problematics of Mahogany - the 1975 Diana Ross star vehicle that combines fashion, politics and melodrama. See links below. Berry Gordon (director), Diana Ross (costume design), Susan Gertsman (wardrobe coordinator: Ms Ross), Jay Hurley (costumer), Annalisa Nasalli-Rocca (wardrobe supervisor), Mahogany (1975): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0073335/ Richard Dyer, ‘Diana Ross’, Marxism Today (June 1982): http://banmarchive.org.uk/collections/mt/pdf/82_06_36a.pdf Success: Richard Dyer on Diana Ross [and Beyond] (1982/2016): https://vimeo.com/150268022 Oybò Untuned Socks: https://www.oybo.it/

We remember Alber Elbaz and his wonderful design sensibility and talk about the amazing jewels on view at Bonhams this week. See links below. Present & Correct: https://www.presentandcorrect.com/ AZ Factory Show Fashion by Alber Elbaz (26 January 2021): https://youtu.be/wssdl8xlZSk AZ Factory: https://www.azfactory.com/ Geoffrey Beene: A Duet of Fashion + Movement, Phoenix Art Museum (2021): http://www.arizonacostumeinstitute.org/geoffrey-beene-virtual-unveiling-fundraiser Loïc Prigent (director), The Day Before: Lanvin (2011): https://distribution.arte.tv/fiche/LANVIN__-_LE_JOUR_D_AVANT and https://youtu.be/FcYDtlQNtWc Bonhams Jewels: https://www.instagram.com/bonhamsjewels/ John Brogden at the V&A: https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/jewellery-designs#slideshow=93099346&slide=0 Fashion and Fancy Dress (The Messel Family Dress Collection at Brighton Museum): https://brightonmuseums.org.uk/discover/2015/02/26/fashion-and-fancy-dress-2/

We marvel at the amazing hairstyles, hats, handbags, and clothes (designed by Marcel Rochas) in Jacques Becker’s 1945 film Falbalas, set in a Paris couture house. See links below. Jacques Becker (director), Marcel Rochas (gowns), Falbalas (1945): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0035853/ Marcel Rochas: https://www.instagram.com/rochasofficial/ and https://rochas.com/en/in-the-eyes-of-marcel/ Violette Leduc, ‘Cette oeuvre d’art fugitive: Une Vitrine’, Pour Elle (1 January 1942): https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k4226919w/f9.item (about Annie Beaumel) Alexander Fury, ‘The Fascinating Woman behind Hermès’ Window Displays’, AnOther (9 November 2017): https://www.anothermag.com/fashion-beauty/10351/the-fascinating-woman-behind-hermes-window-displays (about Annie Beaumel’s ‘pupil’ Leïla Menchari) Recueil. “Falbalas” film de Jacques Becker (1945): https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b10516145p Marie Claire (15 March 1944): https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k4701341r/f1.image (cover with hat by Gabrie

We talk about two films featuring the mesmerising Anna May Wong: Piccadilly (1929) and Daughter of Shanghai (1937). See links below. Ewald André Dupont (director), Piccadilly (1929): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0020269/ Robert Florey (director), Daughter of Shanghai (1937): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0028770/ Costume worn by Anna Mae Wong in Daughter of Shanghai: https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5634636 Brian Taves, Daughter of Shanghai, Library of Congress (undated): https://www.loc.gov/static/programs/national-film-preservation-board/documents/daughter_shanghai.pdf Jean-François Staszak, ‘Performing race and gender: the exoticization of Josephine Baker and Anna May Wong, Gender, Place & Culture, Volume 22, No. 5 (2015): http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/0966369X.2014.885885 Thuy Linh Nguyen Tu, ‘Forgetting Anna May Wong’, Wasafiri, Volume 19, Issue 43 (2004): https://doi.org/10.1080/02690050408589931

We all need some light relief, so join us (again) to play ‘If I Was a Painting’. See links below. Jacques-Louis David, Madame Récamier, née Julie (known as Juliette) Bernard (1777-1849), known as Portrait of Juliette Récamier, Musée du Louvre, Paris (1800): https://www.louvre.fr/en/oeuvre-notices/madame-recamier François Gérard, Portrait de Juliette Récamier, Musée Carnavalet, Paris (c. 1805): http://www.carnavalet.paris.fr/fr/collections/portrait-de-juliette-recamier-1777-1849 Jan van Eyck, The Arnolfini Portrait, National Gallery, London (about 1434): https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/jan-van-eyck-the-arnolfini-portrait Hans Memling, The Donne Tryptich, National Gallery, London (about 1478): https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/hans-memling-the-donne-triptych Oorijzers – ‘Ear-irons’ – Part 1, Atelier Nostalgia (27 September 2016): https://ateliernostalgia.wordpress.com/2016/09/27/oorijzers-ear-irons-part-1/ John Singer Sargent, Mr. and Mrs. I. N. Phelps Stokes, Metropolitan Mus