Bande À Part

We talk about transitioning into autumn - which inspired some exciting new purchases - as well as the Netflix series Greenleaf, particularly Lady May’s wardrobe, and the HBO series Lovecraft Country and its visual references. See links below. Colourful Standard: https://colorfulstandard.co.uk/ AS Colour (the shop in Redchurch Street): https://ascolour.co.uk/ Craig Wright (creator), Johnetta Boone (costume design), Greenleaf (2016-20): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt4971144/ Michael Patrick Jann (director), Mimi Melgaard (costume design), Drop Dead Gorgeous (1999): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0157503/ Matt Ruff, Lovecraft Country (HarperCollins 2016): http://www.bymattruff.com/lovecraft-country/ Misha Green (creator), Dayna Pink (costume design), Lovecraft Country (2020): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt6905686/ Libby Torres, ‘Lovecraft Country' is packed with historical references and hidden clues. Here's a guide to the ones you may have missed., Insider (1 September 2020): https://www.insider.com/lo

We talk about two films from the early 1930s: Bu Wancang’s Love & Duty and Oscar Micheaux’s Veiled Aristocrats. See links below. Yumo Archive: https://www.instagram.com/yumo.archive/ Bu Wancang (director), Love and Duty (1931): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0192239/ Love & Duty (1931) on bilibili: https://www.bilibili.com/video/BV1aE411V7Bh/?spm_id_from=333.788.videocard.0 Stephanie Horose (Hua Luochen), La symphonie des ombres chinoises (Paris: Editions Madeleine 1932) Irene Eber and Joan Hill, ‘Luo Chen (1883-1970), a Jewish Author in China’, Nashim: A Journal of Jewish Women’s Studies & Gender Issues, No. 31, (Spring-Fall 2017): https://www.jstor.org/stable/10.2979/nashim.31.1.08 Patrick Galvan, Ruan Lingyu: Her Life and Career (documentary) (16 October 2019): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_cDg7wjsas Richard Meyer, Jin Yan: The Rudolph Valentino of Shanghai (Hong Kong University Press 2009): https://hkupress.hku.hk/pro/318.php Sam Juliano, ‘Cinema as Archaeology – Bu Wancang’s masterpiece Love

We talk about the fabulous catalogue and wonderful website accompanying the ‘Willi Smith: Street Couture’ exhibition at the Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum in New York. See links below. Lou Stoppard, ‘The Phantom Handbag’, New York Times (16 July 2020): https://www.nytimes.com/2020/07/15/style/coronavirus-handbags.html Dior Autumn-Winter 2020-2021 Haute Couture: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yxBFwqRbI8c Simone Vertua, ‘Show-in-a-box: Loewe celebrates the creative process’, L’Officiel (13 July 2020): https://www.lofficiel.co.uk/fashion-week/show-in-a-box-loewe Brit Bennett, The Vanishing Half (Hachette 2020): https://www.hachette.co.uk/titles/brit-bennett/the-vanishing-half/9780349701448/ Lila Shapiro, ‘If You Can Perform Whiteness, Then What Does It Mean to Be White?’, Vulture (12 June 2020): https://www.vulture.com/2020/06/brit-bennett-the-vanishing-half-interview.html Helen Rappaport, Four Sisters: The Lost Lives of the Romanov Grand Duchesses (Pan 2015): https://helenrappaport.com/russ

We talk about Leigh Wannell’s film The Invisible Man and its possible parallels to what is happening in the world right now. See links below. Leigh Wannell (director), Adam Johansen, Damien Martin, Emily Seresin (costume design), The Invisible Man (2020): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt1051906/ and https://www.universalpictures.com/movies/the-invisible-man Michael Powell director), Polly Peck (dresses), Dickie Richardson (wardrobe), John Tullis of Horrockses (dress), Peeping Tom (1960): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0054167/ Alfred Hitchcock (director), Blackmail (1929): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0019702/ Alfred Hitchcock (director), Harry Kress (wardrobe), North by Northwest (1959): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0053125/ Ralph Ellison, The Invisible Man (first published in 1952): https://www.penguin.co.uk/articles/2016/invisible-man-by-ralph-ellison/ Gordon Parks, Invisible Man (1952): http://www.gordonparksfoundation.org/gordon-parks/photography-archive/invisible-man-1952/artworks?view=slider

We reflect on Rebecca’s MA Documenting Fashion students’ brilliant work this year and discuss the exciting virtual exhibitions ‘Jalebi’ by Ahluwalia and Laurence Ellis, and ‘"My Heart will always be in Brixton": Olive Morris’ by Linett Kamala with the Black Cultural Archives on Google Arts and Culture. See links below. Courtauld Institute of Art, MA History of Art Special Option: Documenting Fashion: Modernity, Films and Image in America and Europe, 1920-1960: https://courtauld.ac.uk/study/postgraduate/ma-history-art/documenting-fashion http://blog.courtauld.ac.uk/documentingfashion/ V&A, London, fashion exhibitions: https://artsandculture.google.com/exhibit/exhibiting-fashion-victoria-and-albert-museum/5wKyuCOYoCgBIA?hl=en Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, fashion publications: https://tinyurl.com/tca9for Kwame Brathwaite: https://www.kwamebrathwaite.com/ Tanisha C. Ford: http://www.tanishacford.com/ The Grandassa Models: https://www.instagram.com/thegrandassamodels/ Ahluwalia: https://www.ahl

Armando Iannucci (director), Suzie Harman, Robert Worley (costume designers), The Personal History of David Copperfield (2019): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt6439020/ George Cukor (director), Dolly Tree (costume & wardrobe), David Copperfield (1935): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0026266/ Leigh Singer, ‘“The story is the least interesting part”: Armando Iannucci on adapting David Copperfield’, Sight & Sound magazine (21 January 2020): https://www.bfi.org.uk/news-opinion/sight-sound-magazine/interviews/armando-iannucci-personal-history-david-copperfield-casting-modern-dickens-adaptation Melissa Bennett & Iyamide Thomas, ‘Meet the Krios of Sierra Leone’, Museum of London Discover (26 September 2019): https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/discover/meet-krios-sierra-leone-docklands London’s Fashion Alphabet – K for Krio, Museum of London (2019): https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/museum-london/londons-fashion-alphabet/londons-fashion-alphabet-k Beatrice Behlen and Christine Supianek, ‘Peopling the Pleasure Garden:

Rebecca is telling Beatrice about an online event she attended: a conversation with photographer and historian Jamel Shabazz, organised by Nights Global:. See links below. Nights Global: https://nightsglobal.com/ and @nightsglobal Bisoye Babalola: @bisoyebabalola Jamel Shabazz: http://jamelshabazz.com/index.html and @jamelshabazz Panel Members: @dupremethegod (@blackcotten_), @youngparis, Lamel Logan, Pamela Badila and Joe Cooper Jamel Shabazz, Ernie Paniccioli, Back in the Days: Photographs by Jame Shabazz (first published 2001): http://www.powerhousebooks.com/books/back-in-the-days/ Jamel Shabazz, A Time before Crack (first published 2005): https://www.powerhousebooks.com/books/a-time-before-crack-limited-edition/ Daryoush Haj-Najafi, ‘Jamel Shabazz: A Time Before Crack, Vice (27 May 2011): https://www.vice.com/en_uk/article/qba9xm/jamel-shabazz-a-time-before-crack The Badila Family: https://www.facebook.com/TheBadilaFamily/ Derwent Pencil Museum, Keswick, Cumbria: https://www.derwentart.com/en-gb

We talk about two documentaries about the Black Panther Party shot in 1968 by Agnès Varda: Black Panthers and Huey. See links below. Agnès Varda (director), Black Panthers (1968): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0209942/ Currently (June 2020) available to watch here: https://www.troiscouleurs.fr/le-festival-a-la-maison/court-metrage-black-panthers-dagnes-varda-a-voir-sur-mk2-curiosity/ Agnès Varda (director), Huey (1968): https://www.facebook.com/political.film/videos/1617020975008840/ Agnès Varda Q&A, Black Panthers and Other Short Works, Film at Lincoln Centre (12 May 2015): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eo81Grb8A9Y Delphine Letort, ‘Agnès Varda: filming the Black Panthers struggle’, ORDA (L'Ordinaire des Amériques) 217 (2014): https://journals.openedition.org/orda/1646 and https://doi.org/10.4000/orda.1646 Janelle Harris, ‘The Rank and File Women of the Black Panther Party and Their Powerful Influence’, Smithsonian Magazine (4 March 2019): https://www.smithsonianmag.com/smithsonian-institution/rank-

We talk about Virigina Woolf’s 1924 short story ‘The New Dress’ and Lisa Cohen’s article about Woolf’s “frock consciousness”. See links below. https://www.instagram.com/roisinmurphyofficial/ https://bonhomme.fr/# The New Dress, Excerpt from Viriginia Woolf’s 1927 [sic] short story, by Vestoj Editors: http://vestoj.com/the-new-dress/ The New Dress read by Carolyn Pickles, BBC (21 June 2019): https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/p07d4lyy Lisa Cohen, ‘”Frock Consciousness”: Virginia Woolf, the open secret, and the Language of Fashion’, Fashion Theory, Volume 3, Issue 2 (1999): https://doi.org/10.2752/136270499779155032 Georg Simmel, ‘Fashion’, American Journal of Sociology, Volume 62, No. 6 (May 1957): https://www.jstor.org/stable/2773129 Lisa Cohen, All We Know: Three Lives (2012): https://wesscholar.wesleyan.edu/englbooks/58/ R.S. Koppen, Virginia Woolf: Fashion & Literary Modernity, Edinburgh University Press (2009): https://edinburghuniversitypress.com/book-virginia-woolf-fashion-and-literary-modernit

We talk about the amazing colours, the light, clothes and make-up in Powell and Pressburger’s 1948 film The Red Shoes. See links below. Michael Powell and Emeric Pressburger (directors), Hein Heckroth (costume design), The Red Shoes (1948): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0040725/ Wardrobe and dresses of Ludmilla Tchérina: Dorothy Edwards Additional dresses for Ludmilla Tchérina: Carven Dresses for Moira Shearer: Jacques Fath and Mattli Make-up artists: George Blackler, Eric Carter, Ernest Gasser Michael Powell, A Life in Movies: An Autobiography (1986): http://www.powell-pressburger.org/Reviews/Micky/ALIM.html Hein Heckroth: Film Designer, Deutsches Film Institut, Filmmuseum, Berlin (28 March – 25 August 1991): https://www.dff.film/ausstellung/hein-heckroth-film-designer/ and http://www.shop-filmmuseum.de/Katalog-Hein-Heckroth-Film-Designer Villa Léopolda: https://www.pop.culture.gouv.fr/notice/memoire/APGLT03800 Matthew Bourne, The Red Shoes: https://new-adventures.net/the-red-shoes#overview Douglas Kee

We talk about the books we have been reading (good and bad) and Fashion Interpretations, the AHRC-funded networking project Rebecca runs with Judith Clark, which focuses ‘on the ways modern and contemporary fashion is continually reinterpreted through varied mediums’. See links below. Present & Correct: https://www.presentandcorrect.com/ Michael Arlen, The Green Hat (1924): https://www.capuchin-classics.co.uk/capuchin/site/product_rpt.asp?Catid=235 Michael Arlen, May Fair (1925) Hallie Rubenhold, The Five: The Untold Lives of the Women Killed by Jack the Ripper (2019): https://www.hallierubenhold.com/books/the-five/ Fashion Interpretations website: https://sites.courtauld.ac.uk/fashioninterpretations/ Fashion Interpretations Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/fashioninterpretations/

We discuss the list Love Magazine asked Rebecca to make of 10 lesser known designers who have helped to shape fashion. See links below. Rebecca Arnold, '10 Lesser-Known Fashion Designers Who Have Shaped The Industry', Love (5 May 2020): https://www.thelovemagazine.co.uk/article/10-lesser-known-fashion-designers-who-have-shaped-the-industry Callot Soeurs: Jessamyn Hatcher and Pari Dukovic, 'Twenty-One Dresses', The New Yorker (23 March 2015): https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2015/03/23/twenty-one-dresses Lucile: https://www.vogue.com/article/a-scandal-survives-the-story-of-fashion-designer-and-titanic-passenger-lucile Madeleine Vionnet: https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1936-vionnet-carnival-dress/ Claire McCardell: http://fashionmuseum.fitnyc.edu/view/people/asitem/items$0040:6603/0 Geoffrey Beene: https://www.si.edu/object/nmah_360606 Ossie Clark: Osman Ahmed, 'The Fabulous Femininity of Ossie Clark', AnOther (25 August 2016): https://www.anothermag.com/fashion-beauty/8992/the-fabulous-femininity-o

We talk about the thoughtful documentary about Martin Margiela and our admiration for his wonderful work. See links below. Reiner Holzemer (director), Martin Margiela: In His Own Words (2019): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt11284244/ and https://www.martinmargielafilm.co.uk/ Margiela, the Hermès Years, Momu, Antwerp (31 March 2017 – 27 August 2017): https://www.momu.be/en/exhibitions/new-entry-2 MARGIELA / GALLIERA, 1989-2009, Palais Galliera (3 March – 15 July 2018): http://www.palaisgalliera.paris.fr/en/exhibitions/margiela/galliera-1989-2009

We talk about the clothes of our favourite characters from the fabulous Peter Bogdanovich film What’s Up, Doc? See links below. Peter Bogdanovich (director), Polly Platt (production and costume designer), What’s Up, Doc? (1972): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0069495/ Aaron Hunter, Polly Platt: Authorship by Design (2018): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RsXW2H3_wIo Adam Hulin (director), By Bogdanovich, part 1 (2011): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jw2FMVsZdTA Howard Hawks (director), Howard Greer (costume design, gowns), Bringing Up Baby (1938): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0029947/ Marimekko: https://company.marimekko.com/en/about-marimekko/history/ Peter Bogdanovich (director), Polly Platt (production and costume design), Paper Moon (1973): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0070510/ Peter Bogdanovich (director), Polly Platt (production and costume design), The Last Picture Show (1971): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0067328/

We discuss our favourite designers, wondering what criteria we should use to decide on our favourite designers ... See links below. Hans Holbein, Christina of Denmark, Duchess of Milan (National Gallery, London, 1538): https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/hans-holbein-the-younger-christina-of-denmark-duchess-of-milan Witt Library: https://courtauld.ac.uk/study/resources/image-libraries/witt-library Headdress Frames, Museum of London: https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/search/#!/results?terms=headdress%20frame Joanna Freedman, A study of female dress worn in England, c.1525-1545: with specific reference to the Lisle Letters, Courtauld Institute of Art Dissertation (1991): https://tinyurl.com/qmk68ft Simone Rocha: https://simonerocha.com/ Rebecca Arnold, ‘Vionnet and Classicism’, in Vionnet, Judith Clark Costume (15 March – 16 April 2001): https://judithclarkcostume.com/wp-content/uploads/Judith-Clark-16pp-Vionnet.pdf Elsa Schiaparelli: https://www.schiaparelli.com/en/21-place-ven

We talk about the incredible 1915-16 crime serial Les Vampires and its compelling star Musidora AKA Irma Vep ... See links below. Louis Feuillade, Les Vampires (1915-16): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0006206/ Les Vampires on archive.org: https://tinyurl.com/rylbufl Cinémathèque Française, Musidora sur le web (3 December 2019): https://www.cinematheque.fr/article/1492.html Musidora talks to journalist Jean Thévenoz in 1948: https://www.rts.ch/archives/radio/divers/emission-sans-nom/4523749-musidora-la-vamp.html Site of Les Amis de Musidora: https://www.musidora.org/ ‘La vie d’une vamp par Musidora (Ciné-Mondial 1942)', La Belle Equipe(29 June 2015): https://www.la-belle-equipe.fr/2015/06/29/la-vie-dune-vamp-par-musidora-cine-mondial-1942/ Vicki Callahan, 'Zones of Anxiety: Movement, Musidora, and the Crime Serials of Louis Feuillade' (Wayne State University Press 2005): https://www.wsupress.wayne.edu/books/detail/zones-anxiety Palais Galliera, ‘Anatomie d’une Collection’ (2016): http://www.palaisgalli

We talk about the TV programmes we currently find solace in - which in our case means Cheer and The Real Housewives – and what they tell us about ourselves, fashion and beauty. See links below. Greg Whiteley (director), Cheer (2020): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt11426660/ Scott Dunlop (creator), The Real Housewives of Atlanta (2008-): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt1252370/

We talk about the fabulous Louise Weber, better known as La Goulue, a French Cancan dancer whose photos feature in the Musée de Montmartre in Paris. See links below. Musée de Montmartre: https://museedemontmartre.fr/ Jean Renoir (director), Rosine Delamare (costume design), French Cancan (1955): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0046998/ La Goulue retrouve Montmartre, 12/13 Paris Ile de France (16 March 1992): https://www.ina.fr/video/PAC02021108/la-goulue-retrouve-montmartre-video.html Portrait - La Goulue femme libérée, Télé Matin (1 April 2019): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dEjraI9pdeI Maryline Martin, La Goulue: Reine du Moulin Rouge (éditions du Rocher 2019): https://www.editionsdurocher.fr/livre/fiche/la-goulue-9782268101200 Nadine Biss, La Goulue, ARTHive Revue (15 September 2014): https://wheatonarthive.wordpress.com/2014/09/15/la-goulue/ Michel Souvais, Moi, la Goulue de Tolouse-Lautrec(Publibook des Ecrivains 2008) François Gasnault, Nuits parisiennes: Chahut, cancan et galop infernal..., talk

We discuss Lisa Immordino Vreeland’s beautifully conceived and edited documentary about Cecil Beaton. See links below. Courtauld Institute of Art, Research Forum Events (2020): https://courtauld.ac.uk/research/research-forum/events Cecil Beaton, Designs for the ballet Apparitions (1936): https://tinyurl.com/t96zg5r Carte de visite of Kitty Lord: https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/717253.html Kitty Lord’s pink boots: https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/431352.html Lisa Immordino Vreeland (director), Love, Cecil (2017): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt5275884/ Bill Verity (director), Beaton by Bailey (1971): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt2205427/ Cecil Beaton Studio Archive at Sothebys: https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/cecil-beaton-studio-archive Cecil Beaton’s royal portraits at the V&A: https://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/cecil-beaton Cecil Beaton, The Glass of Fashion (first published in 1954): https://www.rizzoliusa.com/book/9780847843855/ Leslie Howard and Maur

We discuss Basil Dearden’s fascinating 1959 film Sapphire - which shows the intricacies of identity in post war London. See links below. Basil Dearden (director), Julie Harris (costume design), Sapphire (1959): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0053242/ Sapphire on Retrospective’s Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7HYYhQwYZEE Sapphire on Reelstreets: https://www.reelstreets.com/films/sapphire/ Josephine Botting, ‘Remembering Julie Harries: costume designer for Bond and Hitchcock’, BFI (2 June 2015): https://www.bfi.org.uk/news-opinion/news-bfi/features/remembering-julie-harris-costume-designer-bond-hitchcock ‘The Look of Austerity’, special issue of Fashion Theory, Volume 21, Issue 4 (2017): https://www.tandfonline.com/toc/rfft20/21/4?nav=tocList Lynda Nead, ‘”Red Taffeta Under Tweed”: the color of post-war clothes’, Fashion Theory, Volume 21, Issue 4 (2017): https://eprints.bbk.ac.uk/30543/ Roger Mayne, Southam Street: http://www.rogermayne.com/sstreet/southamstreet.html Bryan Forbes (dir