Bande À Part

We discuss the exhibition ‘An English Lady’s wardrobe’ at Walker Art Gallery in Liverpool which features a selection from a very large collection of clothes owned by one woman in the first half of the 20th century. See links below. Bassano Studio, Woman modelling bed jacket (1934): https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/520641.html An English lady’s wardrobe, Walker Art Gallery, National Museums Liverpool (25 October 2019 – 1 March 2020): https://www.liverpoolmuseums.org.uk/whatson/walker-art-gallery/exhibition/english-ladys-wardrobe#section--the-exhibition Pauline Rushton, ‘Mrs Tinne’s Wardrobe: A Liverpool Lady’s Clothes 1900-1940’ (National Museums Liverpool 2019): https://shop.liverpoolmuseums.org.uk/products/mrs-tinnes-wardrobe-a-liverpool-ladys-clothes-1900-1940

We discuss two 1940s films - The Gentle Sex (1943) and It Always Rains on Sunday (1947) - and the fascinating ways they portray wartime and post-war femininities. See links below. Rebecca Arnold, ‘Fashion in Ruins: Photography, Luxury and Dereliction in 1940s London’, Fashion Theory, Vol. 21, Issue 4 (2007): https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2016.1254426 Claire McCardell, Popover Dress (1942): https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/works-of-art/C.I.45.71.2ab/ Vera Maxwell, Jumpsuit (1945): https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/155844 Leslie Howard (director), The Gentle Sex (1943): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0035931/ Robert Hamer (director), Anthony Mendleson (wardrobe supervisor), It Always Rains on Sunday (1947): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0040481/ Arthur La Bern, writer of the novel It Always Rains on Sunday (1945): http://www.london-books.co.uk/authors/arthurlabern.html London Locations of It Always rains on Sunday: https://www.reelstreets.com/films/it-always-rains-on-sunday/ BFI, Introduct

We discuss Jean Paul Gaultier’s incredible final show and the wonders of looking at couture clothes in museum storerooms. See links below. Rebecca Arnold, Fashion: A Very Short Introduction (OUP 2009): https://global.oup.com/academic/product/fashion-a-very-short-introduction-9780199547906 and https://e.jd.com/30536485.html Gaultier Paris – Spring-Summer 2020 Fashion Show: https://www.jeanpaulgaultier.com/en-gb/jpglive/ and https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-couture/jean-paul-gaultier Catherine Ringer and Les Rita Mitsouko: http://www.catherineringer.com/ The Clothworkers’ Centre at the V&A: https://www.vam.ac.uk/info/the-clothworkers-centre-for-the-study-and-conservation-of-textiles-and-fashion Paul Poiret, ‘Toujours’ Dress, 1911 (VA&): http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O139787/toujours-dress-paul-poiret/ Paul Iribe, Les Robes de Paul Poiret (1908): https://archive.org/details/lesrobesdepaulpo00irib Dress by Madeleine Vionnet, 1937 (V&A): http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O319608/dress-vio

We discuss Frédéric Tscheng’s 2019 documentary Halston and consider the American designer’s incredible work. See links below. Fréderic Tcheng (director), Halston (2019): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt9358192/ Halston on Dogwoof: https://dogwoof.com/halston Jack Hazan (director), A Bigger Splash (1973): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0071219/ (contains Ossie Clark show footage) Dwight Hemion/Joe Layton (directors): My name is Barbra, TV Special (1965): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0243435/ Elaine Gross and Fred Rottman, Halston: An American Original (Harper Collins 1999): https://books.google.co.uk/books/about/Halston.html?id=mLRxQgAACAAJ Leslie Frowick, Halston: Inventing American Fashion (Rizzoli 2014): https://www.rizzolibookstore.com/halston-inventing-american-fashion Patricia Mears and Emma McClendon, Yves Saint Laurent + Halston (YUP 2015): https://yalebooks.yale.edu/book/9780300211511/yves-saint-laurent-halston Jenny Lister (author, editor), Mary Quant (V&A 2019): https://www.vam.ac.uk/shop/mary-qu

We discuss the Dora Maar exhibition at Tate Modern, and especially enjoy seeing her fascinating fashion and street photography. ‘Dora Maar’, Tate Modern, London (to 15 March 2020): https://www.tate.org.uk/whats-on/tate-modern/exhibition/dora-maar ‘Modern Couples: Art, Intimacy and the Avant-garde’, Barbican Art Gallery, London (10 October 2018 – 27 January 2019): https://www.barbican.org.uk/whats-on/2018/event/modern-couples-art-intimacy-and-the-avant-garde Brian Dillon, ‘The Voraciousness and Oddity of Dora Maar’s Pictures’, The New Yorker (21 May 2019): https://www.newyorker.com/culture/photo-booth/the-voraciousness-and-oddity-of-dora-maars-pictures Liz Jobey, ‘The mesmerising art of Dora Maar’, Financial Times (15 November 2019): https://www.ft.com/content/0ee21c42-05a6-11ea-9afa-d9e2401fa7ca Dora Maar, ‘Untitled’ (c. 1934), MoMA: https://www.moma.org/collection/works/56376 Dora Maar, ‘Untitled’ (c. 1930), MoMA: https://www.moma.org/collection/works/56382 Hans-Christian Dany, ‘MA-1. Mode und Unifor

We revisit our favourite game - this time choosing the fashion photographs we would like to inhabit. See links below. Nick Knight: https://www.nickknight.com/ Edward Steichen, Marion Morehouse, 1927: https://www.gettyimages.co.uk/detail/news-photo/model-marion-morehouse-standing-with-both-hands-on-her-hips-news-photo/507047690 Helmut Newton, Yves Saint-Laurent, Rue Aubriot, French Vogue, Paris (1975): https://www.christies.com/lotfinder/Lot/helmut-newton-19202004-yves-st-laurent-rue-6225247-details.aspx Gordon Parks, Fath Show Stoppers, Paris 1951: http://www.gordonparksfoundation.org/about-gordon-parks/photography-archive/fashion-1948-61?view=slider#19 Gordon Parks on Google Arts & Culture: https://artsandculture.google.com/entity/m02t_dy ‘A Hectic Week of Paris Showings’, Life (5 March 1951): https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=0UsEAAAAMBAJ&lpg=PA102&dq=%22jacques%20fath%22&pg=PA105#v=onepage&q&f=false Franz Xaver Winterhalter, Empress Eugénie Surrounded by her Ladies-in-Waiting (1855): https://comm

We discuss Mae West - her transgressive and contradictory negotiations of gender, sexuality, class and ethnicity, her body image and her incredible film costumes and extravagant jewels. See links below. Lowell Sherman (director), Edith Head (costume designer, uncredited), ‘She done him wrong’ (1933): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0024548/ Wes Ruggles (director), Travis Banton (costume designer), ‘I’m No Angel’ (1933): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0024166/fullcredits Leo McCarey (director), Travis Banton (costume designer), ‘Belle of the Nineties’ (1934): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0024873/ Jill Watts, ‘Mae West: An Icon in Black and White’, Oxford University Press (2003): https://global.oup.com/academic/product/mae-west-9780195161120 Mae West speaks at UCLA (5 December 1971): https://comm.ucla.edu/content/speaker-series-mae-west-5121971 FIDM Museum, ‘Mae West’ (14 August 2009): https://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2009/08/mae-west.html Bert Williams, Library of Congress: https://www.loc.gov/item/ihas.2

We discuss Lina Iris Viktor’s mesmerising exhibition at Autograph and the 1981 documentary ‘Edith Head: Portrait of a Hollywood Costume Designer’. See links below. Lina Iris Viktor, ‘Some are born to endless night – dark matter’, Autograph (13 September 2019 – 25 January 2020): https://autograph.org.uk/exhibitions/some-are-born-to-endless-night-dark-matter Lina Iris Viktor’s website: https://www.linaviktor.com/ Sarah Cascone, ‘Gustav Klimt’s Adele Bloch-Bauer Paintings to Be Reunited at Neue Galerie’, artnetnews (30 June 2016): https://news.artnet.com/exhibitions/neue-galerie-gustav-klimt-adele-bloch-bauer-paintings-535565 Christian Blackwood and Charlotte Kerr (directors), Edith Head (1981): https://www.michaelblackwoodproductions.com/project/edith-head/

We discuss the diverse and fascinating exhibits on display in ‘The Art of Innovation: From Enlightenment to Dark Matter’ at the Science Museum in London. See links below. ‘African Textiles from the Karun Thakar Collection’, Brunei Gallery, SOAS (11 October 2019 – 14 December 2019): https://www.soas.ac.uk/gallery/african-textiles/ ‘The Art of Innovation: From Enlightenment to Dark Matter’, Science Museum (25 September 2019 – 26 January 2020): https://www.sciencemuseum.org.uk/see-and-do/art-innovation-enlightenment-dark-matter Ciba-Geigy Review: https://discover.libraryhub.jisc.ac.uk/search?q=ciba+geigy+review Caroline Alexander, ‘Faces of War’, Smithsonian Magazine (February 2007): https://www.smithsonianmag.com/arts-culture/faces-of-war-145799854/ Jeanne Willette, ‘Henry Tonks: Torn Portraits: The Art of Facial Reconstruction’, arthistoryunstuffed (1 July 2016): https://arthistoryunstuffed.com/henry-tooks-torn-portraits-the-art-of-facial-reconstruction/ Allison Meier, ‘The Sculptor who made masks for so

We talk about the display The Clash: London Calling which just opened at the Museum of London and the National Army Museum’s exhibition of Abram Games’ wartime posters. See links below. The Clash: London Calling, Museum of London (15 November 2019 – 19 April 2019): https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/museum-london/whats-on/exhibitions/london-calling-40-years-clash Designed by: http://www.calumstorrie.com/ London Calling: 1979 panel discussion (22 November 2019): https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/museum-london/whats-on/london-calling-1979?id=232008 Lou Adler (director), Nancy Dowd (writer), Ladies & Gentlemen: The Fabulous Stains (1982): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0082639/ Martin Davidson, Stephen Verona (directors), Glenda Ganis (costume design), The Lords of Flatbush (1974): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0071772/ The Art of Persuasion: Wartime Posters by Abram Games, National Army Museum (6 April 2019 - 24 November 2019): https://www.nam.ac.uk/whats-on/art-persuasion-wartime-posters-abram-games

We talk about clothes worn by Isabelle Huppert and Chloë Grace Moretz in the film Greta and a slightly puzzling 1920s dress in the Museum of London’s collection. See links below. Neil Jordan (director), Joan Bergin (costume design), Greta (2018): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt2639336/ Nick Chen, Greta is a film about loneliness, and using designer bags to make friends, Dazed, 16 April 2019: https://www.dazeddigital.com/film-tv/article/44019/1/greta-film-neil-jordan-chloe-grace-moretz-isabelle-huppert Jules David Prown, ‘The Truth of Material Culture: History or Fiction?’, in Jules David Prown and Kenneth Haltman, American Artifacts: essays in material culture.(Michigan State University Press 2000), pp. 11-27 Valerie Steele, A Museum of Fashion is More Than a Clothes-Bag, Fashion Theory, Volume 2, Issue 4 (1998), pages 327-335: https://doi.org/10.2752/136270498779476109

We discuss punk girls in the 1982 film Ladies & Gentlemen: The Fabulous Stains and Bianca Saunders wonderful exhibition Nearness in Brixton, London. See links below. Lou Adler (director), Nancy Dowd (writer), Ladies & Gentlemen: The Fabulous Stains (1982): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0082639/ Trailer for Ladies & Gentlemen: The Fabulous Stains (1982): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=06kCwPpyjCk Caroline Coon, The film ‘Ladies and Gentlemen, the Fabulous Stains!’ was originally ‘All Washed Up!’: http://www.carolinecoon.com/stainspage.htm Jessica Heron-Langton, ‘Bianca Saunders enlists her family to star in her new Brixton exhibition’, Dazed (25 October 2019): https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/46511/1/bianca-saunders-nearness-exhibition-ronan-mckenzie-akinola-davies-caleb-femi Kemi Alemoru, ‘Bianca Saunders’ Black History Month exhibit is a comforting ode to the diaspora’, Gal-Dem (25 October 2019): https://gal-dem.com/bianca-saunders-nearness-new-exhibit-black-history-month/ http://biancas

We wonder whether there is a trend for cocooning clothes to protect us from the anxieties of contemporary politics ... and discuss the V&A’s Tim Walker exhibition ... See links below. Best in Show: Rebecca Arnold, Show Studio (2 June 2019): https://www.showstudio.com/projects/best_in_show/best-show-rebecca-arnold Definition of froufrou: https://www.larousse.fr/dictionnaires/francais/froufrou/35436 Carola Bauckholt, Hirn & Ei (2010/11), performed at Detmolder Sommertheater (Juni 2014): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U-fHqfGpmdw Tim Walker: Wonderful Things, V&A (until 8 March 2020): https://www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/tim-walker Have fun! by Tim Walker, Vogue Italia (14 November 2016): https://www.vogue.it/en/fashion/cover-fashion-stories/2016/11/14/have-fun-vogue-italia-november-2016/ Museum of London, The Kindred of the Kibbo Kift: https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/discover/kibbo-kift-collection-focus Cathy Ross, Designing Utopia: John Hargrave and the Kibbo Kift (Bloomsbury 2015): https://www.bloomsbu

We discuss the new book Avedon Advertising - which includes an essay by Rebecca on Richard Avedon’s incredible work. See links below. Richard Avedon, The Richard Avedon Foundation, Laura Avedon, James Martin, Rebecca Arnold, Avedon Advertising (Abrams 2019): https://www.abramsandchronicle.co.uk/book/9781419733383-avedon-advertising/ The Richard Avedon Foundation: https://www.avedonfoundation.org/ Helen Whitney (director), Richard Avedon: Darkness and Light (1996): https://youtu.be/4XElT1udbFM JUN ROPE' CM / Richard Avedon ・Lauren Hutton (1973) 120 second: https://youtu.be/DqBomuf2uGY JUN ROPE’ CM / Richard Avedon・Anjelica Huston (1973) 60 second: https://www.collectibledry.com/fashion-and-beauty/jun-rope-cm-richard-avedon/ JUN ROPE' CM / Richard Avedon・Jean Shrimpton (1973) 60 second: https://youtu.be/svR2XvhWXtc JUN ROPE' CM / Richard Avedon・ベラシカ (1973) 30 second: https://youtu.be/Y2Y-SVck7n0

We talk about Lady Hale’s amazing spider brooch, the joy of seeing Dries van Noten and Christian Lacroix working together and Perry Henzell’s 1972 film The Harder They Come. See links below. Dries Van Noten and Christian Laxroix (SS 2020): https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-ready-to-wear/dries-van-noten Reiner Holzemer (director), Dries (2017): https://www.driesfilm.com/ Perry Henzell (director and co-writer), Trevor Rhone (co-writer), The Harder They Come (1972): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0070155/ The Harder They Come Trailer: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=imGkQdE7N2s Ras Daniel Hartman (plays Pedro in The Harder They Come): https://www.rasdanielheartman.com/ Ulrick Casimir, ‘A question of audience: revisiting Perry Henzell’s The Harder They Come’, Jump Cut, No. 53 (summer 2011): https://www.ejumpcut.org/archive/jc53.2011/CasimirHarderThCome/text.html Raphael Dalleo, ‘Performing Postcoloniality in the Jamaican Seventies: The Harder They Come and Smile Orange’, Postcolonial Text, Vol

We discuss the wonders of Bonhams jewellery sale and the historical references contained within jewellery design Still Processing podcast: https://www.nytimes.com/column/still-processing-podcast Emily Barber: https://www.instagram.com/gemilybarber/ Bonhams Jewels: https://www.instagram.com/bonhamsjewels/?hl=en London Jewels auction, Bonhams (24 September 2019): https://www.bonhams.com/auctions/25315/ Buccellati: http://uk.buccellati.com/en/private-collection London’s Fashion Alphabet, G – Garnet (17 September 2019): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EgS1RK-nIFQ Alice Cicolini: http://www.alicecicolini.com/ William Hogarth, Miss Mary Edwards (1742), The Frick Collection: https://collections.frick.org/objects/details/207/miss-mary-edwards

We discuss the evolution of fashion shows and debate the reason for their continuation. See links below. Pyer Moss: https://pyermoss.com/ Vanessa Friedman, ‘The Rebirth of New York Fashion’, New York Times (12 September 2019): https://www.nytimes.com/2019/09/12/style/marc-jacobs-new-york-fashion-week.html Leandra Medine, ‘Why Was NYFW Trendless This Season?’, Manrepeller (9 September 2019): https://www.manrepeller.com/2019/09/nyfw-trends.html Rodarte: http://www.rodarte.net/ John Maybury (director), Rifat Ozbek Fashion Video 1989: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qcCYlg7cAPc Tatum Dooley, 'Vaquera, CDLM/Creatures of the Wind, and Section 8 Will Showcase Their Spring Summer 2020 Collections Together During NYFW’, Teen Vogue (13 August 2019): https://www.teenvogue.com/story/brands-will-stage-three-way-fashion-show-nyfw-springsummer2020 Thebe Magugu: https://www.thebemagugu.com Elizabeth Paton, ‘Thebe Magugu Wins LVMH Prize for Young Designers’, New York Times (4/9 September 2019): https://www.nytimes.co

We talk about cosmetics between the wars, the traces our garments leave on us and our surroundings as well as the times when clothes fail us. See links below. Rebecca Arnold, ‘The Kodak Ensemble: Fashion, Images and Materiality in 1920s America’, Fashion Theory (15 July 2019): https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2019.1638166 The Vintage Compact Shop, Richard Hudnut (15 April 2017): https://thevintagecompactshop.com/blogs/antique-and-collectible-history/richard-hudnut-compacts-heritage Tre-Jur Advertisement (1924): https://www.periodpaper.com/products/1924-ad-tre-jur-makeup-cosmetics-compact-lipstick-blush-rouge-powder-jewel-case-116999-thm-232 Grace Lee, Evening Essential: Grace’s Family’s 1930s Minaudière, Documenting Fashion (12 December 2017): http://blog.courtauld.ac.uk/documentingfashion/tag/minaudiere/ Ewald André Dupont (director), Piccadilly (1929): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0020269/ Aria Darcella, Remember when a dress almost destroyed Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers?, CR (21 June 2018): https:

We talk about a recent visit to the Imperial War Museum North, particularly the interplay of architecture and objects. See links below. Imperial War Museum North: https://www.iwm.org.uk/visits/iwm-north Daniel Libeskind, IWM Project: https://libeskind.com/work/imperial-war-museum-north/ Peter Jackson, They Shall Not Grow Old, Trailer (2018): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PcgceA64aAI Uniforms and insignia on display at IWM: https://tinyurl.com/y5qtg86b Marlene Dietrich’s uniform jacket: https://www.iwm.org.uk/collections/item/object/30099912 Marlene Dietrich’s uniform trousers: https://www.iwm.org.uk/collections/item/object/30099913 War Through Other Stuff: https://warthroughotherstuff.wordpress.com/

We discuss the wonderful exhibition of Finnish artist Helene Schjerfbeck’s work at the Royal Academy. See links below. Helene Schjerfbeck, Royal Academy of Arts (20 July – 27 October 2019): https://www.royalacademy.org.uk/exhibition/helene-schjerfbeck Helene Schjerfbeck, Schirn Kunsthallle Frankfurt (2 October 2014 – 11 January 2015): http://schirn.de/schjerfbeck/ (good introduction) Tina Berning: https://www.instagram.com/tina_berning and https://tinaberning.de/