Bande À Part

We discuss the intimate relationship between fashion and interiors, as expressed in couture salon and stores, and how these relate to “backstage” areas where the garments are made. Jess Berry, House of Fashion: Haute Couture and the Modern Interior (Bloomsbury Visual Arts 2018): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/house-of-fashion-9781474283403/ John Pawson’s Jigsaw Store, London (1995-1996): http://www.johnpawson.com/works/jigsaw-store Nigel Coates’ Jigsaw Stores, London (1990): https://nigelcoates.com/projects/project/jigsaw British Movietone, Victor Stiebel’s Salon (1958): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rHdtgslRAXo Beatrice Behlen, ‘A Fashionable History of the King's Road’, in Anjali Bulley (ed), Cadogan & Chelsea: The Making of a Modern Estate (Unicorn 2017): https://www.press.uchicago.edu/ucp/books/book/distributed/C/bo28498331.html Helmut Lang shop, New York (1997): http://www.gluckmantang.com/projects/helmut-lang/#2 Helmut Lang Perfumerie, New York (2001): http://www.gluckmantang.com/projects/helmu

190811-P68 Catching Up We catch up on each other’s news - including seaside fashion, Crocs, Manolo Blahnik at the Wallace Collection and The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel. Ellie Pithers, ‘Can Christopher Kane Make Crocs Covetable?’, Vogue Online (20 September 2016): https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/christopher-kane-crocs-trend Chester Himes, A Rage in Harlem (1957): https://www.penguin.co.uk/books/180/180468/a-rage-in-harlem/9780141196442.html An Enquiring Mind: Manolo Blahník at the Wallace Collection, Wallace Collection (10 June – 1 September 2019): https://www.wallacecollection.org/whats-on/coming-soon-an-enquiring-mind-manolo-blahnik-at-the-wallace-collection/ Giorgio Riello, A Foot in the Past: Consumers, Producers and Footwear in the Long Eighteenth Century (Oxford University Press 2006) Empress Marie-Antoinette’s travel essentials: https://www.museesdegrasse.com/en/evenement/box Galerie des Modes et Costumes Français (1778-1785), ‘Couturiere élégante allant livrer son ourvrage’: https://gallica.bnf.fr/a

Inspired by a recent event at Autograph ABP in London we talk about colourism and film. See links below. Celeste Bell and Zoë Howe, Dayglo!: The Creative Life of Poly Styrene (2019): https://www.waterstones.com/book/dayglo/celeste-bell/zoe-howe/9781785586163 Jordan Mooney and Cathi Unsworth, Defying Gravity: Jordan’s Story (2019): https://www.waterstones.com/book/defying-gravity/cathi-jordan/unsworth/9781785588365 Vivien Goldman, Revenge of the She-Punks: A Feminist Music History from Poly Styrene to Pussy Riot (2019): https://guardianbookshop.com/revenge-of-the-she-punks-9781477316542 Colourism and Photography, Past Event at Autograph (2 July 2019): https://autograph.org.uk/events/colourism-and-photography Nadia Latif, It’s lit! How film finally learned to light black skin, The Guardian online (21 September 2017): https://www.theguardian.com/film/2017/sep/21/its-lit-how-film-finally-learned-how-to-light-black-skin Lorna Roth, Looking at Shirley, the Ultimate Norm: Colour Balance, Image Technologies, an

We talk about the concept of everyday dress following the Everyday Fashion conference in Huddersfield and Leeds. (Apologies for the helicopter noise!) See links below. Everyday Fashion: Extraordinary Stories of Ordinary Clothes (27-18 June 2019): https://research.hud.ac.uk/art-design/events/everyday-fashion-conference/ Alfred Gillet Trust (Heritage Collection of C & C Clark Ltd.): https://alfredgilletttrust.org/ M&S Company Archive: https://marksintime.marksandspencer.com/home Alison Toplis, The Clothing Trade in Provincial England, 1800–1850 (Routledge 2015): https://www.routledge.com/The-Clothing-Trade-in-Provincial-England-18001850-1st-Edition/Toplis/p/book/9781138664449 Rebecca Arnold, The American Look: Fashion and the Image of Women in 1930's and 1940's New York (Bloomsbury 2008): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/the-american-look-9781860647635/ Cheryl Buckley and Hazel Clark, Fashion and Everyday Life: London and New York (Bloomsbury 2017): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/fashion-and-everyday-life-97

We discuss the brilliant new exhibition Get Up, Stand Up Now: Generations of Black Creative Pioneers at Somerset House. See links below. Get Up, Stand Up Now: Generations of Black Creative Pioneers, Somerset House (12 June – 15 September 2019): https://www.somersethouse.org.uk/whats-on/get-up-stand-up-now Zak Ové: http://www.zak-ove.co.uk/ Horace Ové (director), Pressure (1976): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0075098/ Horace Ové, The Black Safari (1972): https://www.bfi.org.uk/films-tv-people/4ce2b6f601fde Normski: http://www.normskiphotography.com/ Barbara Walker: https://www.barbarawalker.co.uk/ David Hammons: https://www.moma.org/artists/2486 Sanford Biggers: http://sanfordbiggers.com/ Marlon James: https://www.penguinrandomhouse.com/authors/240287/marlon-james Hank Willis Thomas: https://www.hankwillisthomas.com/ Campbell Addy: https://campbelladdy.com/ Nick Cave at Jack Shainman Gallery: https://www.jackshainman.com/artists/nick-cave/ Ari Haque: https://ari-potter.com/

We discuss the allure of 1930s gangster style, as seen in American and Japanese films. Links are below. Holly Marler’s collection for Liberty London (June 2019): https://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/liberty-london-fashion Documenting Fashion Blog: http://blog.courtauld.ac.uk/documentingfashion/ Rich Cohen, The Original Gangster Style, New York Times (10 June 2019): https://www.nytimes.com/2019/06/10/fashion/the-original-gangster-style-guy.html Mervyn LeRoy (director), Little Caesar (1931): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0021079/ Albert Parker (director), The Black Pirate (1926): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0016654/ Yasujirô Ozu (director), Walk Cherfully (1930): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0020980/ The Ozu Collection – The Gangster Films, BFI (1929-1933): https://www.bfi.org.uk/blu-rays-dvds/ozu-collection-gangster-films Frank R. Strayer, Rough House Rosie (1927): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0018345/ Pamela Hutchison, Walk Cheerfully (1930: Yasujiro Ozu’s Toe-Tapping Tough Guys, Silent London (8 May 20

We discuss the fascinating archive of technical menswear at Westminster University. See links below. Westminster Menswear Archive: https://www.mensweararchive.com/ Westminster Menswear Archive database: https://westminster-atom.arkivum.net/index.php/westminster-menswear-archive Westminster Menswear Archive IG: https://www.instagram.com/menswear_archive/?hl=en Video about the Westminster Menswear Archive: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lEDoqc2NMgY Westminster Menswear Archive - Item 2016.138 - Padded Shooting Jacket: https://westminster-atom.arkivum.net/index.php/2016-138 Example of Chinese Fighter Pilot High Altitude Partial Pressure Suit: https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/china-air-force-mig-23-fighter-pilot-500884658 Massimo Osti Archive: https://www.massimoosti.com/the-archive/mission/ Gunner Park, The Uncompromising World of Carol Christian Poell, Grailed (19 May 2017): https://www.grailed.com/drycleanonly/carol-christian-poell-master-class W. David Marx, Ametora: How Japan Saved Ameri

We discuss which painting we would most like to live in ... See links below. Jacques-Louis David, Madame Récamier, née Julie (known as Juliette) Bernard (1777-1849), known as Portrait of Juliette Récamier, Musée du Louvre, Paris (1800): https://www.louvre.fr/en/oeuvre-notices/madame-recamier François Gérard, Portrait de Juliette Récamier, Musée Carnavalet, Paris (c. 1805): http://www.carnavalet.paris.fr/fr/collections/portrait-de-juliette-recamier-1777-1849 Jan van Eyck, The Arnolfini Portrait, National Gallery, London (about 1434): https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/jan-van-eyck-the-arnolfini-portrait Hans Memling, The Donne Tryptich, National Gallery, London (about 1478): https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/hans-memling-the-donne-triptych Oorijzers – ‘Ear-irons’ – Part 1, Atelier Nostalgia (27 September 2016): https://ateliernostalgia.wordpress.com/2016/09/27/oorijzers-ear-irons-part-1/ John Singer Sargent, Mr. and Mrs. I. N. Phelps Stokes, Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

We discuss Charlie Curran’s beautiful film See Know Evil which documents the life of fashion photographer Davide Sorrenti. See links below. Charlie Curran (director), See Know Evil (2018): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt8755156/ See Know Evil on Charlie Curran’s website: http://www.charliecurran.com/see-know-evil See Know Evil IG: https://www.instagram.com/see_know_evil/ Charlie Curran IG: https://www.instagram.com/myhilism/ Rebecca Arnold, Fashion Desire and Anxiety (I.B. Tauris 2001): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/fashion-desire-and-anxiety-9780857718396/ Rebecca Arnold, ‘Heroin Chic’, Fashion Theory, Volume 3, Issue 3 (1999): https://doi.org/10.2752/136270499779151405 Jake Hall, ‘Reframing the life and work of pioneering 90s photographer Davide Sorrenti’, Dazed (24 January 2019): https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/43027/1/davide-sorrenti-90s-photographer-see-know-evil-film-charles-curran-heroin-chic James Cameron (director), Terminator 2: Judgement Day (1991): https://www.imdb.com/tit

We discuss Max Ophüls’ 1952 film Le Plaisir and wonder at the ageing dandy portrayed in the opening section. See links below. Max Ophüls (director), Le Plaisir (1952): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0045034/ Max Ophüls (director), The Mask from Le Plaisir (1952) – with Italian subtitles: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eoBi1BeT_PQ&t=22s Robin Wood, ‘Le Plaisir: Life is Movement’ (16 September 2008): https://www.criterion.com/current/posts/548-le-plaisir-life-is-movement V.F. Perkins, ‘Le Plaisir: “The Mask” and “The Model”’, Film Quarterly (1 September 2009): https://filmquarterly.org/2009/09/01/le-plaisir-the-mask-and-the-model/ Guy de Maupassant, Le Masque (1889): http://colleges.ac-rouen.fr/pompidou/eva/IMG/pdf_Maupassant_-_Le_Masque.pdf Guy de Maupassant, The Mask (1889): http://www.online-literature.com/maupassant/4272/ Susan Buck-Morss, The Dialectics of Seeing: Walter Benjamin and the Arcades Project (MIT Press 1989): http://susanbuckmorss.info/media/files/the-dialectics-of-seeing.pdf Peter

We wonder just what cruise and resort wear are ... Some links below. Fashion, Self-Reflexivity and the Question of Inspiration, Conference, History of Dress, Research Forum, The Courtauld Institute of Art (11 May 2019): https://courtauld.ac.uk/event/fashion-self-reflexivity-and-the-question-of-inspiration Addressing Images with Nadya Wang, The Courtauld Institute (17 May 2019): https://courtauld.ac.uk/event/addressing-images-3 Fashion Illustration Masterclass with Martin Welch, The Courtauld Institute (17 June 2019): https://courtauld.ac.uk/event/fashion-illustration-masterclass-with-martin-welch Bobby A. Suarez (director), Cleopatra Wong (1978): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0077343/ Resort 2020 Shows on Vogue Runway: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2020 April Calahan, ‘Tina Leser: Global Vision’, in Nancy Deihl (ed), The Hidden History of American Fashion: Rediscovering 20th-century Women Designers, Bloomsbury (2019) Rebecca Arnold, 'Behind the Scenes with Louise Dahl-Wolfe and Toni Fri

We discuss the costumes in Pose, it’s influences and the history of Drag Balls. See links below. Jennie Livingston (director), Paris is Burning (1990): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0100332/ Jennie Livingston: https://www.jennielivingston.com/ Steven Canals, Brad Falchuk, Ryan Murphy (creators), Pose (2018): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt7562112/ Jamel Shabazz: http://www.jamelshabazz.com/ Armet Francis photos at V&A: http://collections.vam.ac.uk/name/francis-armet/AUTH319927/ Berry Gordy (director), Mahogany (1975): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0073335/ Monique-Antoine Orosemane (Mounia), ‘Black History Month with Fashion Bomb Daily: Mounia’ (2011): http://fashionbombdaily.com/black-history-month-with-fashion-bomb-daily-mounia/ Debbie Allen in Fame, TV Series, Season 1 (1982): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vtgmnhRQir4 RuPaul’s Drag Race (2009-): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt1353056/ Alyson Hobbs, A Chosen Exile: A History of Racial Passing in American Life (Harvard University Press 2014): http:/

We discuss the ritual of getting dressed with the help of your valet or maid in the early 20th century. See links below. Myself When Young by Iris Capell, printed by D.G. Seldon Printing Limited, Hamilton, Ontario, Canada (not dated) John Singer Sargent, The Countess of Essex, Private Collection (1906): https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Adele_Capell,_Countess_of_Essex#/media/File:The_Countess_of_Essex,_1906.jpg Henry Poole, Savile Row tailors: https://henrypoole.com/hp/ Le Diable à Paris (1845): https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k5578064j Louis Gould, Mommy dressing : a love story, after a fashion (1998): https://archive.org/details/mommydressinglov00goul Lucinda Hawksley, The great Victorian beard craze, BBC (17 November 2014): https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/magazine-30037914 Kate Strasdin, Inside the Royal Wardrobe: A Dress History of Queen Alexandra (2017): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/inside-the-royal-wardrobe-9781474269933/

We discuss Charles Poulsen’s memoirs of life in early 20th century London and his work in the fur trade. See links below. Charles Poulsen, Scenes from a Stepney youth (1988): https://archive.org/details/scenesfromstepne00poul Charles Hobday, Charles Poulsen (obituary), The Guardian (14 December 2001): https://www.theguardian.com/news/2001/dec/14/guardianobituaries.humanities British Pathé, Fur Coat (1953) – shows nailing: https://www.britishpathe.com/video/fur-coat/query/furrier Lyon’s Corner House Menu (1914) – no egg mayonnaise: https://www.kzwp.com/lyons1/tariff1914.htm Photograph of Nippy, Museum of London (1925-1933): https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/468522.html

We discuss Moses Quiquine's wonderful art that crosses time and space, and his exhibition ‘Voodoo Child: Identity, Spirituality & Fashion’ at The Africa Centre in London. See links below. Moses Quiquine: ‘Voodoo Child’, The Africa Centre, London (22/03/2019 –17/04/2019): https://www.africacentre.org.uk/blog/moses-quiquine-voodoo-child-exhibition/ Moses Quiquine: https://www.instagram.com/mosesquiquine/ Igor Kopytoff, 'The cultural biography of things: Commodization as process', in Arjun Appadurai (ed), The social life of things: commodities in cultural perspective (CUP 1986): http://ls-tlss.ucl.ac.uk/course-materials/ANTH7021_68798.pdf

We talk about the work of some of the artists working with textiles who are part of TJ Boulting's current exhibition Subversive Stitch. See links below. UCL, The Survey of London, Boulting & Sons (19 May 2017): https://blogs.ucl.ac.uk/survey-of-london/2017/05/19/boulting-sons/ Subversive Stitch, TJ Boulting (14 February – 23 March 2019): http://www.tjboulting.com/exhibitionspage/509/subversive-stitch Subversive Stitch conversation – Charlotte Edey, Lilah Fowler and Celia Pym (20 March 2019): http://www.tjboulting.com/newsandevents Roszika Parker, The Subversive Stitch (2010, first published 1984): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/the-subversive-stitch-9781848852839/ Goldsmiths, University of London, The Subversive Stitch Revisited: The Politics of Cloth: https://www.gold.ac.uk/subversivestitchrevisited/ Hrafnhildur Arnardóttir / Shoplifter: http://www.shoplifter.us/ Emma de Clercq, We meet Icelandic artist Shoplifter at her hair-filled Brooklyn studio, Infrigne (20 October 2016): https://www.infring

We discuss McDermott & McGough’s inspiring Oscar Wilde Temple at Studio Voltaire in Clapham, and its link to Aesthetic Dress. McDermott & McGough, The Oscar Wilde Temple, Studio Voltaire, London (3 October 2018 – 28 April 2019): https://www.studiovoltaire.org/exhibitions/ The Oscar Wilde Temple: https://www.oscarwildetemple.org/ McDermott & McGough: http://www.mcdermottandmcgough.com/ V&A, An Introduction to the Aesthetic Movement (2018): https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/an-introduction-to-the-aesthetic-movement Stella Mary Newton, Health, Art & Reason – Dress Reformers of the 19th Century (John Murray 1974) Liberty silk dress made by Denyer & Co, Museum of London (1881-82): https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/77441.html Opera Cape made of Liberty fabric, Museum of London (1893-98): https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/89403.html

We discuss our love of Molly Goddard and other female designers making clothes that women want to wear now. Molly Goddard: https://mollygoddard.com/ Dress Portrait, Molly Goddard and Sarah Edwards, Chelsea Space (23 January - 1 March 2019): http://www.chelseaspace.org/archive/dress-portrait-info.html Ana Kinsella, How a Dress Can Be More Than a Commodity, Frieze (20 February 2019): https://frieze.com/article/how-dress-can-be-more-commodity Killing Eve, Series 1:2, Costume designer Phoebe de Gaye (15 September 2018): https://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/p06kc8mb/killing-eve-series-1-2-ill-deal-with-him-later Lily-Evelina England, Fashioning the dangerous woman in 'Killing Eve' (23 November 2018): http://blog.courtauld.ac.uk/documentingfashion/2018/11/23/fashioning-the-dangerous-woman-in-killing-eve/ Smock Frock Histories: http://www.smockfrock.co.uk/ and https://www.instagram.com/smockfrock98/ Batsheva: https://www.batsheva.com The Vampire's Wife: https://thevampireswife.com/ Horror Vacui: https:

We discuss Valerie Steele's recent talk at the London College of Fashion about the current exhibition at and history of the Fashion Institute of Technology Museum in New York. See also links below. Exhibitionism: 50 Years of The Museum at FIT (8 February 2019 – 20 April 2019): https://www.fitnyc.edu/museum/exhibitions/exhibitionism.php Valerie Steele and Colleen Hill (eds): Exhibitionism: 50 Years of The Museum at FIT (2019): http://www.skira.net/en/books/exhibitionism Exhibiting Fashion Symposium, FIT (8 March 2019): https://www.fitnyc.edu/museum/events/symposium/exhibiting-fashion/index.php 50 Years of The Museum at FIT: Fashion as Cultural Heritage (14 March 2019): https://www.fitnyc.edu/museum/events/index.php#MFIT Walter Vecchio (photos) and Robert Riley (text), The Fashion Makers: A Photographic Record (Crown Publisher 1968) Annalee Gold, ‘Talks with a Costume Conservator’, American Craft (October/November 1981): http://www.bettykirke.com/articles/Craftmag/acm.html Judith Clark and Amy de

We discuss the beautiful exhibition at Alexander McQueen’s Old Bond Street store that shows the research and design process for the current collection. See links below. Unlocking Stories (2019): https://www.alexandermcqueen.com/experience/en/unlocking-stories/ Hand & Lock: https://handembroidery.com/ Maison Lesage: http://www.lesage-paris.com/ Edwina Ehrman and Amy de la Haye, London Couture: British Luxury 1923-1975 (2015): https://www.vam.ac.uk/shop/london-couture-british-luxury-1923-1975-131549.html