Bande À Part

We wonder what natural makeup is, and marvel at Nick Knight’s photographs of Rihanna. Blog post by cosmeticsandskin about Pan-Cake Make-Up: https://cosmeticsandskin.com/bcb/cake.php Vogue UK September 2018 Issue Cover: https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/rihanna-september-cover-british-vogue-2018 Madame Yevonde: http://www.madameyevonde.com/ Azuma Makoto: http://azumamakoto.com/ Azuma Makoto making iced flowers for Dries van Noten (2015): https://youtu.be/4y8h5bh30-o Victor Stiebel's Overalls for Constance Spry Ltd at V&A: http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O1276042/overalls-stiebel-victor/

We discuss the recent Vivienne Westwood film and ponder what we want from fashion documentaries. Lorna Tucker, Westwood: Punk, Icon, Activist (2018): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt4378628/ Gillian Greenwood, Vivienne Westwood (1990, episode of The South Bank Show): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt1574390/ Douglas Keeve, Unzipped (1995): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0114805/

We discuss the film Smithereens and early 1980s fashion, and what we value in Modern Jewellery. Susan Seidelman (director), Smithereens (1982): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0084698/fullcredits Interview with Susan Berman (1982): https://player.vimeo.com/video/277148700 Maripol: http://www.maripol.com/who-i-am Maribeth Keane & Jessica Lewis on Modernist Jewellery (2009): https://www.collectorsweekly.com/articles/an-interview-with-modernist-studio-jewelry-collector-marbeth-schon/

We discuss the brilliant Antonio Lopez documentary and ponder on the relationship between 1970s fashion as seen in magazines versus what was worn on the street. Fendi campaign (2018): https://www.harpersbazaar.com/uk/fashion/fashion-news/a22102910/north-west-kim-kardashian-fendi-campaign/ Matti Suuronen, Futuro House (1968): http://www.thefuturohouse.com/ James Crump, Antonio Lopez 1970: Sex Fashion & Disco (2018): http://sexfashiondisco.com/ Marguerite Duras, Baxter, Vera Baxter (1977): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0074190/fullcredits

We talk about the Archaeology of Fashion Film conference and Queer Eye. Archaeology of Fashion Film: http://archfashfilm.arts.ac.uk/ Stella Scott, The Performers (2017): https://www.stellascott.net/the-performers Isaac Lock, Black (2018): http://somesuch.co/directors/isaac-lock/reel/black/ Vitoria de Mello Franco, Divinas (2018): https://www.nowness.com/story/divinas-victoria-de-mello-franco Queer Eye (2018): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt7259746/

We discuss holiday packing and capsule wardrobes, and just what makes certain people’s style so visually compelling. The Conversations with Jason Campbell & Henrietta Galina: https://itunes.apple.com/gb/podcast/the-conversations/id1328893989 Issue 1 of Fashion Studies: https://www.fashionstudies.ca/issue-1 Alison Matthews David, Fashion Victims (2015): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/fashion-victims-9781472577740/

We discuss the wonders of pre-code film Finishing School, and think about Edie Beale’s fashion sense as seen in the new film That Summer. George Nichols Jr. & Wanda Tuchock (directors), Finishing School (1934): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0025117/ Women Film Pioneers: https://wfpp.cdrs.columbia.edu/pioneer/ccp-wanda-tuchock/ Göran Olsson (director), That Summer (2017): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt7057306/

We discuss looking at Antonio and Bouché drawings and the intricacies of cataloguing fashion in the museum. Gray M.C.A: https://www.graymca.com/ Velwyn: http://www.velwyn.com/ Frida Wannerberger: https://www.fridawannerberger.com/ What Do We Want From Fashion Writing And Imagery Now?: https://courtauld.ac.uk/event/what-do-we-want-from-fashion-writing-and-imagery-now

We discuss World War I London society fashions as seen in Tatler and The Sketch, and the fashion illustration events at The Courtauld Institute. Photographs of Bertram Park: https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/person.php?LinkID=mp05646&role=art&displayNo=60 Fashion Illustration Now (15 June 2018): https://courtauld.ac.uk/event/fashion-illustration-now Kenneth Paul Block: https://www.societyillustrators.org/kenneth-paul-block Kenneth Paul Block exhibition at mfa Boston (2015-16): https://www.mfa.org/exhibitions/kenneth-paul-block La Mode en Peinture (published 1982-c.1990): https://www.instagram.com/p/BMtb1RihNpq/?hl=en

We discuss photographs of mock weddings and cross-dressing and the notorious 1973 ‘Battle of Versailles’ fashion show. Under Cover: A Secret History of Cross-Dressers: https://thephotographersgallery.org.uk/whats-on/exhibition/under-cover-secret-history-cross-dressers Sebastien Lifshitz: http://sebastienlifshitz.com/ Bambi (Marie-Pierre Pruvot): https://www.bambi-officiel.com/tout-sur-bambi/ Versailles '73: American Runway Revolution (2013): http://www.versailles73movie.com/ Review of Robin Ghivan, The Battle of Versailles (2015): https://www.nytimes.com/2015/05/03/books/review/the-battle-of-versailles-by-robin-givhan.html

We discuss the intricacies of dress as passing and dress as performance. Passing: Fashion in American Cities (2018): https://courtauld.ac.uk/event/passing-fashion-american-cities Modes pratiques: https://www.modespratiques.fr/special-issue.html Allyson Hobbs, A Chosen Exile (2014): http://www.hup.harvard.edu/catalog.php?isbn=9780674368101 Jennie Livingston, Paris is Burning (1990): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0100332/

We discuss the fascination of fancy dress and the wonders of fashion photography up close. Weldon's Fancy Dress Catalogue (1920s): https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/536070.html A Dress for Spring (2015): http://blog.museumoflondon.org.uk/dress-spring/ Screen Archive South East - Fashion: http://screenarchive.brighton.ac.uk/portfolio/screen-search-fashion/ V&A Prints & Drawings Study Room: https://www.vam.ac.uk/info/study-rooms#prints-drawings-study-room Martin Munkacsi at ICP: https://www.icp.org/browse/archive/constituents/martin-munkacsi?all/all/all/all/0

We discuss interviewing family members (and others) for fashion history, and the wonders of Bonham’s jewellery sales. Exploring 20th Century London website: http://www.20thcenturylondon.org.uk/ 'All about my mother' - article in sisterMag (2012): https://tinyurl.com/y6upplox Instagram account of Bonhams' jewellery department: @bonhamsjewels Instagram account of Emily Barber: @gemilybarber

We discuss fashion’s fascination with nature and related ethical issues, prompted by the new V&A exhibition Fashioned From Nature. V&A exhibition: https://www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/fashioned-from-nature Centre for Sustainable Fashion at LCF: http://sustainable-fashion.com/ Fashion Revolution: https://www.fashionrevolution.org/ Emily Manning on Katharine Hamnett for i-D.vice: https://i-d.vice.com/en_us/article/3kqjzn/why-fashions-eco-warrior-katharine-hamnett-is-kanyes-main-muse

We discuss exhibitions that show Jil Sander and Azzedine Alaia’s purity of vision. Jil Sander exhibition: http://www.museumangewandtekunst.de/en/museum/exhibitions/jil-sander-present-tense.html Azzedine Alaïa website: http://www.alaia.fr/en/home.html# Vogue's review of the show (2018): https://www.vogue.com/article/azzedine-alaia-je-suis-couturier

We discuss Rosamond Bernier’s extraordinary life, and wonder about pockets. Watch a clip of Rosamond Bernier’s lecturing at The Metropolitan Museum here: http://www.rosamondbernier.com/ Leslie Camhi’s 2011 article on Rosamond Bernier for Vogue: https://www.vogue.com/article/rosamond-bernier-the-flaming-debutante Rebecca's article about pockets for Cos: https://www.cosstores.com/gb/Studio/Projects/On_Pockets The Art of Manliness' take on man's pockets (2017): https://www.artofmanliness.com/2015/05/20/a-mans-pockets/ Danica Ollerova for Pause on men wearing handbags (2017): http://pausemag.co.uk/2017/04/will-men-start-rocking-womens-bags-this-season/ Jake Woolf for GQ on whether man purses are a thing (2016): https://www.gq.com/story/mens-shoulder-bag-man-purse-bag Some 19th century skirts with pockets at the Museum of London: https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/82094.html https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/81437.html https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/onli

We discuss gender binaries and barbershops, plus the art of flower making. Lauren Sherman, 'For Women, Hairstyles at the Barbershop', New York Times (11/12/2013): https://www.nytimes.com/2013/12/12/fashion/For-Women-Hairstyles-at-the-Barbershop.html F. Scott Fitzgerald, 'Bernice Bobs Her Hair' (1922): https://web.archive.org/web/20050830054426/http://www.sc.edu/fitzgerald/bernice/ Bassano Studio: https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/group/18241.html Flower Makers Museum: https://www.visit1066country.com/things-to-do/attractions/flower-makers-museum-p411891 The Lost Art of Flower Making (Museum of London blog post 2016): https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/discover/lost-art-flower-making Thomas Bloor, Last of the Flower Makers (1997): https://archive.org/details/lotfm

We discuss how Beatrice learnt to darn, and consider Jessica Jones and what superheroes should wear. Ray-Stitch: https://raystitch.co.uk/ Celia Pym: http://celiapym.com/ Annemor Sundbø: https://annemor.com/english/ Vladimir Arkhipov's Home-Made (2006): http://fuel-design.com/publishing/home-made/ Thérèse de Dillmont, Encyclopedia of Needlework (1886): https://www.gutenberg.org/files/20776/20776-h/chapter_2.html#linen_darning Jessica Jones (2015-): http://www.imdb.com/title/tt2357547/ Luke Cage (2016-): http://www.imdb.com/title/tt3322314/ Wonder Woman (2017): http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0451279/

We discuss why we think Edwardian women look like mermaids and the influence of jazz on interwar British art and design. Lucile gown (1911): https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/81608.html Camille Clifford: https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portrait/mw178842/Camille-Clifford-Camilla-Antoinette-Clifford Paule Morly: https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Paule_Morly#/media/File:MORLY,_Paule_%C3%89toile._764-69._Photo_Stebbing.jpg Annette Kellerman: https://maas.museum/event/million-dollar-mermaid-annette-kellerman/ Edmond (Edmund)Dulac: http://expositions.bnf.fr/contes/grand/091_2.htm Rhythm & Reaction at Two Temple Place: https://twotempleplace.org/exhibitions/rhythm-and-reaction/ Autograph ABP: http://autograph-abp.co.uk/ Mark Matera, Black London (2015): https://www.ucpress.edu/book.php?isbn=9780520284302

We discuss how amazing Grace Jones is and imperfect clothes in museums. Sophie Fiennes (director), Grace Jones: Bloodlight & Bami (2017): http://www.imdb.com/title/tt6903636/ Francis Ford Coppola (director), Bram Stoker's Dracula(1992): http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0103874/ Grace Jones with Paul Morley, 'I Never Write My Memoirs' (2016): http://www.simonandschuster.com/books/Ill-Never-Write-My-Memoirs/Grace-Jones/9781476765082 Present Imperfect: Disorderly Apparel Reconfigured exhibition (2017): http://www.fashionspacegallery.com/exhibition/present-imperfect/