Surfer Life

John “Doc” Ewing

Informações:

Sinopse

John “Doc” Ewing was born and raised in New Jersey. The surfing bug bit him hard, so as soon as he enrolled in college in the mid seventies, he bee-lined straight to San Diego. There he discovered Mexico, which led him to explore the globe, finding niche areas where he could keep a surfboard with friends and visit year by year. Doc has some magnificent tales of surfing Europe before anyone realized there were world class waves to be ridden, and how living out of a Volkswagen in the seventies was perhaps the most efficient way to travel and live. Enjoy the story of a man who was present in the infancy of the surf industry as we know it, taking advantage of connections in Bali to make a buck in the United States. Now Doc is a carpenter, with a multitude of skills learned during a life well lived. He may tell you about some of his favorite waves, but you’re not going to hear about his secret spots, just small indicators only a local would recognize.